In the heart of Alcamo, a picturesque town in the province of Trapani, Sicily, stands the magnificent Church of Jesus, locally known as Chiesa del Gesù. This grandiose Baroque structure, also referred to as the Church of the Jesuit College, is the second largest church in Alcamo, following the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta. With its rich history, stunning architecture, and intricate artworks, the Church of Jesus is a must-visit for anyone exploring this enchanting region of Italy.
The construction of the Church of Jesus began in 1684, funded by the savings of the Jesuits. The land on which the church stands was generously donated by the Municipality of Alcamo. In return, the Jesuits committed to several public works, including the addition of six steps to the Porta Stella, a city gate, and the improvement of the water conduit leading from a spring outside the city walls to a fountain used as an animal trough.
The church's construction was a lengthy process, spanning approximately 80 years. On June 7, 1725, Father Vincenzo Monteleone, the then rector of the Jesuit College, was appointed as the procurator for the church's construction. Despite the slow progress, the church was finally inaugurated on July 29, 1764, with a solemn ceremony. The completion of the church in 1767 marked the end of an era, as the Jesuits were expelled from the church that same year. Due to the prolonged construction period, the locals affectionately nicknamed it the Church of the Patchwork (Chiesa del Rappezzo).
In 2014, the façade of the church underwent a significant consolidation effort, ensuring its preservation for future generations. The church has also been home to various congregations, including the Congregation of the Maestranza dei Cordari, whose members venerated a wooden statue of Christ tied to the column, located in a small chapel near the secondary entrance on Via Mazzini.
The façade of the Church of Jesus, facing Piazza Ciullo, is a stunning example of Baroque architecture. It is adorned with pilasters featuring Doric-Tuscan and Ionic capitals. Five niches on the façade house statues of Saint Ignatius of Loyola, Saint Francis Xavier, the Madonna of Miracles (the patron saint of Alcamo), and the archangels Michael and Raphael. In 1931, these statues were restored by the local sculptor Giuseppe Bambina, following damage inflicted by Garibaldi's troops during their entry into the city on May 17, 1860.
Above the central balcony, a pendulum clock was installed in 1989, replacing an older clock that once adorned the bell tower of the Mother Church of Alcamo. Flanking the clock are two bell towers topped with triangular spires. Inside one of the bell towers, three bells are named after Saint Ignatius of Loyola, Saint Francis Xavier, and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. At the top of the façade, a marble crown commemorates the Spanish dominion in Sicily.
The church's main entrance, accessed via a stone staircase known locally as pietra di li Carrubbazzi, opens into a single nave topped with a barrel vault. The walls and apse are decorated with Rococo-style stuccoes, completed in 1767, possibly by Giovanni and Francesco Russo, who had apprenticed under Lorenzo Curti. The current form of the dome was realized in 1962, and beneath it, a now-missing plaque marked the entrance to a crypt that extended six meters towards the main altar, where deceased members of the Jesuit order were buried.
The main altar is graced by a painting titled The Circumcision of Jesus, created in 1797 by the local artist Giuseppe Renda. The altar is illuminated by stained-glass windows, with the central window depicting Jesus with open hands. The church houses four chapels, with the two largest occupying the transept positions:
The church's cantoria (choir loft) houses an altar that was previously located in one of the side chapels, most likely the one dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus or the Immaculate Conception. This altar is topped with a wooden bust of Saint Ignatius of Loyola.
Near the side entrance on Via Mazzini, an alabaster holy water font from the 1500s, possibly originating from the Church of the Annunziata, adds to the church's historical charm. The font's molded shaft is adorned with acanthus leaf motifs and an image of the Annunziata, while its circular basin is decorated with garlands and once featured four angel heads, of which only one remains.
Adjacent to the main entrance of the Church of Jesus is a Baroque funerary monument dedicated to Father Vincenzo Abbati, who passed away in 1654. Father Abbati was instrumental in the construction of the former Jesuit College, the Church of the Holy Family, and the convent of the Church of Santa Maria dell'Itria in Alcamo. The monument, measuring 383 cm in height and 198 cm in width, is embellished with marble inlays depicting vegetal compositions and is crowned by the Jesuit order's emblem featuring the IHS monogram, above a tympanum edicule.
At the center of the monument, within an elliptical niche, rests a half-bust of Father Vincenzo Abbati. Flanking the bust are two allegorical female figures, one holding a cornucopia and the other a pyre. Below the bust, the Abbati family crest, consisting of three stars arranged in an inverted triangle with a feline claw on a gray background, is displayed. An inscribed marble plaque at the base of the monument bears a commemorative Latin epitaph. The pseudo-pilasters flanking the epitaph feature skulls and ornamental motifs of shells and volutes.
The Church of Jesus in Alcamo is not just a place of worship but a testament to the town's rich history, artistic heritage, and architectural splendor. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a curious traveler, a visit to this magnificent church will leave you in awe of its beauty and significance.
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