The Co-Cathedral of St. Nicholas of Bari, known locally as Concatedral de San Nicolás de Bari, stands as a majestic symbol of Alicante's rich historical and architectural heritage. Nestled in the heart of the city at Plaza Abad Penalva, this co-cathedral shares its status with the Cathedral of the Savior in Orihuela, making it one of the two principal churches of the Orihuela-Alicante diocese. Its unassuming exterior belies the grandeur and historical significance that await within its walls.
The origins of the Co-Cathedral of St. Nicholas of Bari trace back to the 13th century when Alfonso, the Infante of Castile and future Alfonso X the Wise, ordered the construction of a church dedicated to St. Nicholas. This act followed the handover of Alicante by the Muslims on December 6, 1244, the feast day of St. Nicholas. The church was built on the remnants of a mosque, symbolizing the transition of power and culture in the region.
Significant historical events have unfolded within the walls of this church. In 1265, it hosted a pivotal meeting between King James I of Aragon and the Bishop of Barcelona, Arnau de Gurb, along with prominent local figures. This assembly was crucial in garnering support for the Castilian cause against the Muslim insurrection in the Kingdom of Murcia. Over the centuries, the church evolved, reflecting the changing architectural tastes and religious practices of the time.
The Co-Cathedral of St. Nicholas of Bari is a masterpiece of Renaissance Herrerian architecture, characterized by its sober and unadorned exterior. The current structure, completed between 1616 and 1662, was designed by Agustín Bernardino, a disciple of the renowned architect Juan de Herrera. Despite its Renaissance influences, the co-cathedral retains elements of its Gothic predecessor, particularly in the cloister, which dates back to the 15th century.
One of the most striking features of the co-cathedral is its grand interior, dominated by an elegant dome designed by the Alicante architect Miguel del Real. The dome, adorned with Roman-style coffers, reaches an impressive height of 44.79 meters, culminating in a lantern that bathes the interior in natural light. The church’s layout follows the post-Tridentine model, with a Latin cross plan, minimally developed transepts, and a spacious chancel with an ambulatory.
The Co-Cathedral of St. Nicholas of Bari is home to several chapels, each with its own unique charm and historical significance. The Chapel of the Communion, added in the 18th century, stands out for its Greek cross plan and lavish Baroque decoration, contrasting sharply with the more austere main structure. This chapel is considered one of the finest examples of high Baroque art in Spain.
Another notable chapel is dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Alicante. Constructed in 1676 by Juan de Villanueva, it features a central image of St. Nicholas holding the attributes of a bishop, with a grisly yet fascinating depiction of the legend where he resurrects three children from a butcher's tub. The chapel also houses a bust-reliquary of Santa Felícitas, an Alicante martyr, along with her bones displayed in a glass urn.
Among the co-cathedral’s artistic treasures are the retablo of the Souls by Nicolás Borrás (1574), the Christ of the Good Death by Nicolás de Bussi (17th century), and an Italian baldachin made of marble and jasper from 1688. The co-cathedral also boasts one of the oldest organs in Spain, dating back to the 16th century, which has undergone extensive restoration to preserve its historical and musical significance.
Every year on December 6th, Alicante celebrates the feast of St. Nicholas with a solemn mass and a vibrant procession through the city streets. This event features a living representation of St. Nicholas riding a horse, passing by the traditional Christmas market, and drawing locals and visitors alike into the festive spirit. The co-cathedral, as the focal point of these celebrations, underscores its enduring role in the spiritual and cultural life of Alicante.
The Co-Cathedral of St. Nicholas of Bari is more than just a religious edifice; it is a testament to the rich tapestry of Alicante’s history, culture, and architectural evolution. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, from its origins on the site of a mosque to its current status as a co-cathedral. Visitors to Alicante are invited to step inside and explore this remarkable landmark, where the past and present converge in a harmonious blend of art, history, and spirituality.
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