The Alyscamps

The Alyscamps, known locally as Les Alyscamps, is a captivating necropolis located in the historic city of Arles, in the southern French region of Provence. This enchanting site, steeped in history and surrounded by natural beauty, offers a unique glimpse into the past, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.

The History of The Alyscamps

The Alyscamps dates back to the Roman era, serving as a significant burial site. Situated at the south-eastern entrance of Arles, along the ancient Roman road Via Aurelia, it was initially a pagan necropolis before becoming a Christian cemetery. The name Alyscamps is derived from the Provençal term Champs Élysées, referring to the mythological Elysian Fields, a resting place for virtuous souls in Greek mythology.

By the end of the 4th century, The Alyscamps gained prominence due to the martyrdom of Saint Genest, an Arlesian saint decapitated in 303 AD. Over the centuries, the site became so renowned that many sought to be buried there, including the bishops of Arles. Bodies were transported down the Rhône River on small boats, accompanied by sums of money to compensate the Arlesians who performed the burials.

During the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries, The Alyscamps flourished, with numerous churches being constructed within the cemetery. A collegiate church was established in the 11th century, and by 1035, the ancient church of Saint-Genès and its dependencies were given to the monks of Saint-Victor of Marseille by Archbishop Raimbaud. The Alyscamps became an essential stop for pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostela.

However, in 1152, the transfer of Saint Trophime's relics to the Saint-Étienne Cathedral (later known as Saint-Trophime) in the city center diminished The Alyscamps' prestige. The Renaissance period saw the removal of many elaborately sculpted sarcophagi by prelates, lords, and kings to enrich their collections. A boat carrying some of these treasures sank in the Rhône near Pont-Saint-Esprit in the late 16th century.

In the 16th century, the area underwent significant changes with the construction of the Craponne Canal, which brought water from the Durance to the Crau region. The Saint-Honorat Church within The Alyscamps was listed as a historical monument in 1840, and the necropolis itself was extensively altered in 1848 during the construction of the Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean railway and its associated workshops. The Porcelet Chapel and the cemetery surrounding the Saint-Honorat Church were classified as historical monuments in 1862.

The Alyscamps in the Arts

The Alyscamps has inspired numerous artists over the years. In the autumn of 1888, it was famously painted by Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin, who captured its serene and haunting beauty. The site also finds mention in Dante's Inferno (Divine Comedy), specifically in Canto IX, verses 112 and 115.

French poet Paul-Jean Toulet referenced The Alyscamps in his work, and his poem was set to music in 2021 by Daniel Auteuil in the album Si vous m'aviez connu. More recently, the site was mentioned in the song Emmène-moi by the band Marc Seberg, highlighting its enduring influence on the arts.

Exploring The Alyscamps

A visit to The Alyscamps is a journey through time. As you stroll along the ancient path lined with sarcophagi, you can almost hear the whispers of the past. The tranquil atmosphere, shaded by lush trees, provides a serene backdrop for reflection and exploration.

The Saint-Honorat Church, with its impressive architecture, stands as a testament to the site's historical and religious significance. The church's ruins, combined with the surrounding sarcophagi, create a picturesque and evocative scene, perfect for photography and contemplation.

For those interested in the site's artistic heritage, a visit to the spots where Van Gogh and Gauguin set up their easels offers a unique perspective on their work. Imagine the artists capturing the play of light and shadow on the ancient stones, bringing the past to life on their canvases.

Modern-Day Significance

In addition to its historical and artistic importance, The Alyscamps continues to play a role in contemporary culture. On May 30, 2018, the necropolis served as the venue for a fashion show by the Italian luxury brand Gucci, showcasing their Cruise 2019 collection. This event highlighted the site's timeless appeal and its ability to inspire creativity across different fields.

In conclusion, The Alyscamps is more than just a historical site; it is a place where history, art, and culture converge. Whether you are a history buff, an art lover, or simply seeking a peaceful place to reflect, The Alyscamps offers a unique and enriching experience. Its ancient stones and serene pathways invite you to step back in time and immerse yourself in the stories of those who came before. A visit to The Alyscamps is not just a journey through history, but a journey through the very soul of Arles.