St. Stephan, Baden

St. Stephan, locally known as Pfarrkirche Baden-St. Stephan, is a magnificent Roman Catholic church that stands proudly on the eastern edge of the old town center in Baden, Lower Austria. Its imposing tower, crowned with a distinctive Baroque onion dome, is a landmark visible from afar, shaping the city's skyline and inviting visitors to explore its rich history and architectural splendor.

The Historical Tapestry of St. Stephan

The ecclesiastical history of Baden is deeply intertwined with the Diocese of Passau, to which it belonged for centuries. This long-standing connection is commemorated by the dedication of the church to St. Stephen, the patron saint of Passau. Originally, Baden was a subsidiary of the parish church in Traiskirchen. The first documented mention of a priest in Baden dates back to 1220, though his exact role remains unclear. In 1312, Baden gained independence from Traiskirchen and became a parish in its own right under the patronage of Melk Abbey. After prolonged disputes between the bishops of Passau and Melk Abbey, the patronage rights were transferred to Passau in 1693. When the Diocese of Vienna was elevated to an archdiocese in 1729, the area south of Vienna, including Baden, was ceded from Passau. Finally, in 1784, Baden was established as a princely parish.

Over the centuries, the original parish territory of Baden gave rise to several new parishes: Sooß (St. Anna Parish since 1783), St. Christoph (Weikersdorf, elevated to parish status as St. Helena in 1783), and St. Josef (Leesdorf, elevated to parish status in 1990). Today, with approximately 6,000 Catholics, the parish remains one of the largest in the Baden deanery, encompassing several other churches and chapels, including the Frauenkirche in Baden.

Architectural Evolution and Exterior Marvels

The architectural history of St. Stephan before its reconstruction at the end of the 15th century can only be inferred from the remaining structures. The earliest documented reference is to an ossuary (bone house) in 1258. However, given that priests had been active in Baden even earlier and that the castle of Baden likely had a church or chapel, it is reasonable to assume that a church existed on the current site by the late 12th century.

The immediate predecessor of the current church dates back to the Romanesque period, likely a three-aisled structure with two low towers flanking the altar and apse. Around 1400, construction began on a Gothic presbytery with an undercroft, eventually replacing the Romanesque apse. The nave was built in the second half of the 15th century, incorporating the Romanesque outer walls. During this period, the main tower was constructed over the existing Romanesque towers, although the work was frequently interrupted due to the turbulent times, including invasions by Hungarian forces. The main tower was eventually covered with a gabled roof, and it wasn't until 1697, after damage in the Turkish wars, that the iconic Baroque onion dome was added. The remnants of a murder gallery on the northern foretower hint at the church's role in the city's defensive fortifications. By around 1480, the Gothic transformation was complete.

The tower above the main portal on the west side, known as the shot tower, once extended far above the roof but was heavily damaged in the Turkish wars. It was not until 1827 that it received its current appearance, likely dating back to the Gothic period. The 67-meter-high tower houses the so-called Paramentenkammer and the tower keeper's apartment, which was inhabited by the sexton until the 20th century. The bell chamber contains five bells, two of which survived the world wars: the Great Bell (2,000 kg, tone: B) from 1832 and the Litany Bell (950 kg, tone: E) from 1764. The other three bells were cast in 1949: the Marienglocke (tone: F-sharp), the Josefsglocke (tone: G-sharp), and the Urbaniglocke (tone: B).

Interior Splendor and Artistic Heritage

St. Stephan's interior boasts a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Neo-Gothic elements, reflecting its long and varied history. Romanesque features include animal heads embedded under the vaults of the nave. Gothic influences are evident in the baptismal font and several angel statues on the church walls and the south gate. The turbulent period from 1480 to 1683, marked by the Turkish wars and the Reformation, left few Renaissance artifacts, with notable exceptions being some tomb monuments affixed to the church columns. A remarkable tombstone in the Josefskapelle commemorates the Baden pastor Vinzenz Bauernfeind († 1517).

The Turkish wars of 1529 and 1683 caused significant destruction, necessitating extensive Baroque renovations. In the 18th century, several side altars were installed in the nave: the Marian altar with the pulpit, the Sebastian altar, and the Anthony altar. The Josefskapelle was also Baroque-ized. The high altar, adorned with a painting by the renowned Baroque artist Paul Troger depicting the stoning of St. Stephen, was erected in the presbytery, where the windows were almost entirely bricked up. The Baroque influence extends to the sacristy, featuring an altar dedicated to St. Francis Xavier and a valuable Baroque sacristy cabinet from 1743.

In 1880, extensive Neo-Gothic renovations began. The Baroque high altar was replaced in 1893, with the altar painting relocated above the exit near the sacristy. The bricked-up windows in the presbytery were reopened, and Neo-Gothic paneling and choir stalls were installed. The altars in the side aisles, the Josefskapelle, and the Kreuzkapelle were also Neo-Gothic-ized. Unfortunately, the original Gothic statue consoles on the walls were replaced with Neo-Gothic ones, with only one original surviving, now housed in the Baden Schiestl-Hof. The Neo-Gothic transformation concluded in 1913 with the redesign of the side entrances.

In the 1970s, a major interior and exterior renovation took place. The north gate was expanded with several rooms during the installation of a central heating system. Inside, a new people's altar and seating area were constructed. The Neo-Gothic altars in the side aisles were removed, leaving only the altar statues. The damaged Baroque pews were replaced with new ones. In 1989, the altar of the Kreuzkapelle was transferred to the parish house, where a chapel was established.

The Musical Legacy of St. Stephan

The church's organ has a storied history. Originally built for the Dorotheerkirche in Vienna, it was transferred to Baden in 1787 by the brothers Johann and Josef Wiest, organ builders in Vienna. The organ, crafted by the renowned builder Johann Hencke in 1744 and restored in 1762, was partially incorporated into a new organ built in 1987 by Gerhard Hradetzky, using the old case and some original keys. This organ, with 28 registers across two manuals and a pedal, has been played by illustrious musicians, including Mozart and possibly Beethoven. Mozart, who participated in several of his Masses at St. Stephan, was friends with the then-choir director Anton Stoll and dedicated his famous Ave verum, KV 618, to him, likely premiering it at the church on June 23, 1791.

In conclusion, St. Stephan is not just a church; it is a testament to Baden's rich history and cultural heritage. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, from Romanesque beginnings to Gothic transformations, Baroque splendor, and Neo-Gothic revival. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or a music aficionado, St. Stephan offers a captivating glimpse into the past and a serene space for reflection and appreciation of art and history.