Perched regally within the historic heart of Benevento, Italy, the Rocca dei Rettori stands as a testament to centuries of architectural evolution and historical significance. This formidable fortress, dating back to the 8th century, is a captivating blend of medieval fortifications and Renaissance elegance, offering a unique glimpse into the region's storied past.
The Rocca dei Rettori's origins can be traced back to the Lombards, who constructed the imposing Torrione—a nearly rectangular tower that remains a key feature of the castle. This tower, also known as Castrum novum (New Castle), was built on the remnants of an ancient Roman fortification, integrating stones and materials from the Roman era into its robust walls. Over the centuries, the castle underwent numerous modifications, resulting in its current heterogeneous appearance.
In the 8th century, alongside the Torrione, the Benedictine nuns established the monastery of Santa Maria a Porta Somma, named after the nearby city gate. By 771, under Duke Arichis II, the monastery was incorporated into the fortified palace, which would later be known as the Castrum vetus (Old Castle). This early fortification was expanded in the 11th century, utilizing parts of the ancient dam and Roman aqueduct that once served the region.
Abandoned and partially in ruins by the 14th century, the castle was revitalized in 1321 by Pope John XXII of Avignon, who tasked the rector of Benevento, Guglielmo di Balaeto, with restoring the fortress. This restoration transformed the complex into a palatial residence for the rectors, complete with defensive walls, drawbridges, and additional structures. The nuns were relocated to the monastery of San Pietro, and the castle began its new chapter as the Palazzo dei Governatori Pontifici, or Palazzo dei Rettori.
Visitors to the Rocca dei Rettori are greeted by a striking juxtaposition of architectural styles. The Torrione, with its polygonal base and Lombard origins, stands in stark contrast to the more refined Renaissance elements of the Palazzo dei Rettori. The tower's walls, adorned with double lancet windows and topped by two small turrets, offer a glimpse into the fortress's defensive past.
The Palazzo dei Rettori, on the other hand, exudes a more classical charm. Its rectangular layout, complete with an inner courtyard and three floors, showcases a blend of medieval and neoclassical elements. The courtyard features a mix of ancient and classical structures, including framed windows and a colonnade with a tympanum, all set against a glass facade that overlooks the courtyard.
On the ground floor, visitors can explore the castle's dark history in the former dungeons. A double staircase from the main entrance leads to the first floor, where grand salons adorned with 18th-century floral decorations and wooden ceilings await. These rooms, once altered for use as offices, have been meticulously restored to their former glory.
The rear gardens of the Rocca dei Rettori provide a tranquil escape from the fortress's imposing walls. Planted with trees and ending in a cliff on the southern side, the gardens house a lapidarium dedicated to the milestones of the Via Traiana, alongside various fragments of ancient Roman buildings. Among these are two twisted columns discovered at Largo Feuli, offering a tangible connection to the region's Roman past.
Visitors will also encounter numerous modern art installations scattered throughout the gardens, creating a harmonious blend of history and contemporary creativity.
At the entrance to the castle, the Monumento del Leone (Lion Monument) stands as a symbol of vigilance, majesty, and steadfastness. Erected in 1640 in honor of Pope Urban VIII, the lion statue incorporates richly decorated Roman elements, underscoring the enduring legacy of the Samnite people.
Nearby, a bronze statue of Emperor Trajan marks the entrance to the Castrum novum. This statue is a replica of an ancient marble original, paying homage to the Roman emperor who played a crucial role in the region's history.
The Rocca dei Rettori has been the backdrop for numerous significant events throughout its long history. In the 14th century, Queen Joanna I of Naples imprisoned the body of Carlo d'Artus, Count of Montederisi, within the castle walls. He had been executed on suspicion of murdering her first husband, Andrew of Hungary.
In 1385, Pope Urban VI found refuge in the castle after escaping the siege of Nocera. The fortress also served as a prison for Ambrogio, the Abbot of Santa Sofia, who was later released on the orders of King Ladislaus of Naples.
One of the most notable prisoners held at the Rocca dei Rettori was Muzio Attendolo Sforza, a prominent condottiero, who was detained by Giacomo della Marra, husband of Queen Joanna II of Naples, from August 1415 to September 1416.
Today, the Rocca dei Rettori houses the historical section of the Museo del Sannio, where visitors can explore exhibits showcasing the art, history, and folk traditions of Benevento and its province. The museum's collection offers a comprehensive look at the region's cultural heritage, making the Rocca dei Rettori not just a historical monument, but a living museum that continues to educate and inspire.
In conclusion, the Rocca dei Rettori is a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike. Its rich tapestry of architectural styles, fascinating history, and beautiful gardens provide a captivating experience that transports visitors back in time. Whether you're exploring the dungeons, admiring the grand salons, or strolling through the gardens, the Rocca dei Rettori offers an unforgettable journey through the ages in the heart of Benevento.
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