Porte Noire

In the heart of Besançon, a city rich with history and culture, stands an ancient marvel that has withstood the test of time: the Porte Noire. This Gallo-Roman triumphal arch, constructed under the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century, is a testament to the grandeur and artistic prowess of ancient Rome. Originally towering at 16.56 meters, this monumental structure was once adorned with intricate sculptures depicting heroes, deities, and mythological battle scenes, though much of this splendor has been eroded by the passage of time.

The Historical Significance of the Porte Noire

The Porte Noire, initially known as the Porte de Mars, is intrinsically linked to the military victories of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus against the Parthians in 165-166 AD. One can still discern the depiction of the capture of Ctesiphon, albeit in a severely weathered state. The arch’s construction may also be connected to the unrest in the Sequani region between 171 and 175 AD, although this remains speculative.

Strategically placed at the southern end of the cardo maximus, the main thoroughfare of the ancient city, the Porte Noire served as a grand entryway where the road from Italy entered Besançon. Over time, it became part of the city's fortifications, transforming from an honorary arch into a city gate.

The Role of the Porte Noire Through the Ages

During the Pax Romana, the Porte Noire marked the entrance to Besançon for travelers arriving from Italy via Pontarlier. They would journey past the present-day Chapelle-des-Buis, cross the Varesco gate, and descend Mont Cælius, now known as Mont Saint-Étienne. However, as Germanic invasions threatened in the 3rd century, the city fortified itself with a wall that encircled the Doubs River, incorporating the arch into its defenses. This defensive role continued through the Middle Ages, where the arch delineated the boundary between the chapter district and the expanding urban settlement below.

Architectural Marvel and Decorative Splendor

The Porte Noire was originally a slender, towering structure with a height of over 16 meters and a depth of just 2 meters, with an archway height exceeding 11 meters. It likely featured statues atop its crown, enhancing its grandeur. The arch was not merely a gate but an honorary monument, its height allowing for multiple tiers and registers of decorative reliefs. The decorations were so abundant that it seemed the architects feared leaving any space unadorned. This stylistic choice, characterized by a profusion of mythological figures and scenes, sets the Porte Noire apart from other Gallo-Roman triumphal arches.

The arch was lavishly decorated with fine carvings depicting Greek and Roman deities, mythological heroes, and historical scenes of the Roman army. Despite the significant erosion caused by time, fires, and the inherent fragility of the stone, one can still identify figures such as the Dioscuri, Daedalus and Icarus, Theseus, and a frenzied Ajax. The depiction of Jupiter striking down the Giants is another notable element. However, interpreting the entire decorative scheme remains challenging due to the monument's deteriorated condition.

Preservation and Restoration Efforts

Constructed from Vergenne stone, a soft and easily carved material from Haute-Saône, the Porte Noire's intricate sculptures were particularly vulnerable to erosion and pollution. By the early 19th century, the arch's condition had significantly deteriorated, prompting the city to undertake restoration efforts. Under the direction of Pierre Marnotte, the restoration was completed in 1827. Further conservation and restoration projects continued throughout the 20th century, culminating in a major restoration from 2009 to 2011, which aimed to restore the arch to its original color.

Visiting the Porte Noire Today

Today, the Porte Noire stands as a cherished historical monument, classified as such since 1840. Visitors to Besançon can marvel at this ancient structure, imagining its original grandeur and the bustling Roman city that once surrounded it. The arch, though weathered, continues to inspire awe with its towering presence and the remnants of its elaborate decorations. It serves as a poignant reminder of Besançon's rich history and the enduring legacy of the Roman Empire.

Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, the Porte Noire offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. As you stand before this ancient triumphal arch, you can almost hear the echoes of Roman soldiers and the bustling activity of a bygone era. The Porte Noire is not just a monument; it is a portal to the past, inviting you to step back in time and experience the grandeur of ancient Rome in the heart of modern-day Besançon.