Bisceglie Cathedral

Located in the enchanting town of Bisceglie, in the southern Italian region of Apulia, Bisceglie Cathedral, or Concattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo as it is known locally, is a magnificent testament to medieval architecture and religious history. This stunning cathedral, which serves as a co-cathedral of the Archdiocese of Trani-Barletta-Bisceglie, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich cultural tapestry of Italy.

The History of Bisceglie Cathedral

The origins of Bisceglie Cathedral date back to 1073 when it was founded by the Norman Count Peter II of Trani. The cathedral was constructed in the Romanesque style, a popular architectural style of the time, and was completed in 1295. The grand consecration ceremony on May 1st of that year was attended by Bishop Leo and six other bishops, marking the cathedral's importance in the region.

Over the centuries, the cathedral has undergone numerous renovations and modifications, reflecting the evolving architectural trends and the needs of the community. The initial construction took less than thirty years, but from 1100 to 1295, the building experienced continuous adjustments, maintenance, and reworking. While the cathedral’s Romanesque roots are still evident, later restorations have brought back much of its original splendor, stripping away the heavy Baroque style that had enveloped it in the late 18th century.

Exploring the Exterior

The façade of Bisceglie Cathedral, dating from the 13th century, is a remarkable example of Romanesque architecture. The main portal is richly decorated, with a triple band of foliage motifs and a porch supported by griffins on marble columns with Byzantine-style acanthus leaf capitals. Flanking the main portal are two side portals, each adorned with archivolts resting on lion-headed corbels. The upper part of the façade features two biforate windows, four Romanesque single-light windows, and a large Baroque window that replaced the original rose window.

The right side of the cathedral boasts a grand portal framed by ancient columns topped with rough sculptures, while the left side features an intriguing bas-relief of a heifer with tables. The apse, better preserved than other parts of the building, showcases blind arcades, a beautiful window, and corbels with animal figures, all framed by two square bell towers of equal height.

The Interior of Bisceglie Cathedral

The interior of Bisceglie Cathedral is a basilica with three naves, embodying the perfect Romanesque style of Apulia. The matronea (women's galleries) placed above the side naves add to the architectural grandeur. From the second half of the 15th century and into the following century, the cathedral underwent significant transformations, especially in the crypt and with the addition of lateral altars, often to house the tombs of the city's wealthy families. During this period, the frescoes that once decorated the walls and columns were completely removed due to their deteriorated state.

In the 17th century, the chapels of the Blessed Sacrament and Saint Blaise (now known as the Chapel of Saint Christopher) were built, the pulpit and ciborium were replaced, and the main altar and baptistery were redesigned. The complete transformation of the interior into a Baroque style occurred between the late 18th century and the early 19th century. However, the exteriors of the apse and matronea, as well as parts of the façade, still retain their Romanesque character.

The Crypt

The crypt of Bisceglie Cathedral, also renovated over the years, rests on ten columns of coral breccia with a striking yellow-purple hue. It houses the relics of the patron saints and the arm of Saint Stephen. At the center lies the ancient tomb of the bishops. In the mid-18th century and early 19th century, the transformation of the crypt from a graceful Romanesque style to a heavier Baroque style began, modeled after Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome. A staircase was built in front of the porch to improve access to the crypt.

Art and Treasures

The cathedral is home to several notable works of art. On the exterior wall of the chapel in the right nave is an 19th-century fresco of Saint Christopher by Vito Calò, a copy of a work by Titian, now restored. Inside the church, visitors can admire various artworks, including a painting of The Last Supper by Girolamo Palumbo (19th century), now housed in the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. Additionally, a canvas depicting the Madonna of the Rosary with Saints Dominic, Anthony of Padua, Matthew, and Nicholas of Bari by Venetian artist Giovanni Segàla (1692) is displayed on the counter-facade, recently restored in 2020.

The presbytery features a magnificent walnut choir from the Benedictine Abbey of Santa Maria dei Miracoli in Andria. This choir, dating back to the mid-17th century, tells the history of the Benedictine Order from its origins to the end of the Middle Ages. The two wings of the choir, each 8 meters long and 3.36 meters high, flank the main altar, with 24 stalls in the upper tier and 14 in the lower tier. The choir is adorned with a 16th-century frieze, putti, and statues of popes and saints, each with their names and coats of arms.

Among the wooden statues, the 18th-century sculptures by Andria artist Nicola Antonio Brudaglio, including the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows, stand out. The sacristy houses a walnut pulpit from 1770, a walnut panel with a figure of Saint Benedict (17th century, Neapolitan school), and a precious lead chalice.

The cathedral also possesses an 11th-century illuminated Gospel book from a Benedictine monastery, transferred to Bishop Amando in 1182 in exchange for some lands. It features parchment pages and a silver cover, one of only two such examples in Apulia, the other being in Bitonto. The church once held three oil paintings on canvas by Nicola Porta (18th century), depicting the Adoration of the Magi, the Invention of the Cross, and the Trinity and Saints, now residing in the Diocesan Museum.

Bisceglie Cathedral is not just a place of worship but a living museum of history, art, and architecture. Its walls tell the story of a community's faith and resilience, making it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting Bisceglie and seeking to connect with the rich heritage of this beautiful Italian town.