Stepping into the heart of the charming town of Bitonto, Italy, one cannot miss the awe-inspiring sight of the Cathedral of Bitonto, locally known as Concattedrale di Bitonto. This magnificent structure, dedicated to Saint Valentine, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural splendor of the region. Renowned as the most complete example of Apulian Romanesque architecture, the Cathedral of Bitonto is a must-visit for any traveler seeking to delve into Italy's medieval past.
The roots of the Cathedral of Bitonto trace back to the late 11th century. Initial construction began in 1087 and was completed by 1095, as evidenced by documents from the Church of San Silvestro. The current structure, however, was erected between the 12th and 13th centuries, modeled after the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari. This period marked the cathedral's transformation into a grandiose edifice, with its general layout completed by the end of the 12th century and the intricate internal and external decorations finalized by the mid-13th century.
The cathedral's design follows the mature forms of Apulian Romanesque architecture. Noteworthy elements include the richly sculpted portal and the majestic rose window, the latter being the first in Puglia to feature an overarch adorned with a sphinx and flanked by two lions on hanging columns. The crypt beneath the cathedral reveals a mosaic depicting a griffin, adding to the historical intrigue of this sacred site.
The façade of the Cathedral of Bitonto is a visual feast, divided into three sections by pilasters that extend the full height of the central nave. Each section boasts a portal, with the central one being particularly elaborate. This main portal features a double archivolt adorned with animal and vegetal figures, culminating in an overarch richly carved with acanthus leaves and crowned by a pelican, a symbol of the Church's generosity. Supporting this overarch are two stone griffins clutching their prey, all resting on Corinthian columns upheld by life-sized stone lions.
The architrave of the central portal is intricately sculpted with bas-reliefs depicting the Annunciation, Visitation, Epiphany, and Presentation of Jesus at the Temple. The lunette above showcases an Anastasis in bas-relief, adding to the portal's grandeur. The two smaller side portals, though less ornate, also feature sculpted jambs, architraves, and lunette arches.
Above the portals, the upper register of the façade is framed by hanging arches and enriched with four biforas. The central section houses a pair of biforas, each adorned with columns supporting their respective overarches. Dominating the façade is a sixteen-spoked rose window, framed by an arched edicule with an overarch topped by a sphinx and supported by two lions.
The southern side of the cathedral, facing the piazza, features a loggia formed by six hexaforas with columns and capitals sculpted with various human heads. Below each hexafora lies a deep arch, with the last one housing the Porta della scomunica (Door of Excommunication), from where Pope Gregory IX excommunicated Emperor Frederick II in 1227. A single lancet window with a transenna crowns this portal.
In contrast, the northern flank is marked by six symmetrically arranged single-lancet windows. The roofline follows the profile of the façade, with the central nave flanked by two external walls, each punctuated by four equidistant single-lancet windows with transennas and crowned by hanging arches. The transept's gable ends continue the walls of the central nave, featuring four biforas each, with the southern gable end also showcasing a rose window similar to the one on the façade.
Inside, the cathedral presents a debaroquized appearance, with a truss roof added in the late 19th century based on Ettore Bernich's design. The layout follows a Latin cross plan, divided into three naves, each ending in a semicircular apse. The central nave and transept are covered by a wooden truss ceiling with polychrome decoration, while the side naves, topped by matronea, feature sail vaults.
The central nave is separated from the side naves by six Corinthian columns supporting six pointed arches. Above these arches are six triforas that adorn the matronea. A notable feature is the monolithic baptismal font under the second right arch, intricately carved with vegetal motifs and supported by a column with similar decorations. The leftmost column's capital, depicting Alexander the Great's ascent to heaven and subsequent fall, is a significant artistic element.
At the base of the central nave, a stone balustrade designed by Ettore Bernich runs along the façade wall, flanked by two baroque tombs of Bishops Musso and Barba. The marble pulpit, a 17th-century reconstruction of the ambon and ciborium by Gualtiero da Foggia (1240), features geometric and vegetal motifs and colored glass inlays.
Beneath the main church lies the crypt, supported by 36 repurposed columns from the ancient Temple of Minerva, with capitals adorned with zoomorphic and phytomorphic designs. The crypt leads to a paleo-Christian church, preserving remnants of an earlier 5th-6th century structure. Excavations have revealed limestone blocks dating back to the 9th-10th centuries and an 11th-century mosaic of a griffin, symbolizing Christ's dual nature.
One of the cathedral's most significant pieces is the ambon, now positioned on the right side of the central nave. Originally located between the last two columns on the left, this marble structure features a richly carved lectern. The ambon is adorned with high-quality sculptural fragments, showcasing geometric and vegetal patterns, making it a masterpiece of medieval art.
The Cathedral of Bitonto, with its rich history, architectural grandeur, and artistic treasures, offers visitors a fascinating journey through time. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, this remarkable cathedral is sure to leave a lasting impression.
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