El Gesù, or the Church of Jesus and Mary (Chiesa di Gesù e Maria), is a captivating historical gem nestled in the heart of Castellammare di Stabia, Italy. This remarkable church not only offers a glimpse into the rich religious heritage of the region but also stands as a testament to the architectural prowess of its time. As you wander through the charming streets of Castellammare di Stabia, the church’s elegant façade beckons visitors to explore its storied past and artistic treasures.
The origins of El Gesù date back to the early 17th century. On April 9, 1608, the local community and Bishop Ippolito Riva invited the Jesuits to the city, tasking them with establishing a church and college. This endeavor was supported by an annual subsidy of around 300 ducats. The project gained momentum thanks to a generous donation from a local citizen, Pier Giovanni Nocera, who contributed 13,400 ducats. The church was initially named Santa Maria del Soccorso.
The arrival of the Jesuits was not without controversy. Other religious orders, such as the Franciscans, Dominicans, and Carmelites, viewed the newcomers as a threat to their influence and income from alms. Despite this, the Jesuits settled in Castellammare di Stabia on December 24, 1609. Construction of the church and college began in 1614, based on designs by Pietro Provedi and later modified by Agazio Stoia. By 1615, the structures were completed, and the college housed twelve monks, offering lessons in letters and recreational activities like music and theater.
In 1767, the Jesuits were expelled from the Kingdom of Naples, and the church changed hands several times, eventually becoming part of the Community of the Clergy in 1786. Over the next five decades, the church underwent significant transformations, including the installation of a larger organ in 1800, enhancements to the altar and chapels, and extensive restorations completed in 1839. The church was then consecrated anew, adopting its current name, Chiesa di Gesù e Maria.
El Gesù is a masterpiece of architectural design, featuring a single nave with a barrel vault, a main altar enclosed in an apse, and four side chapels. The marble flooring and column bases add a touch of elegance, while seven large windows illuminate the interior with natural light. The exterior façade is divided into two sections by a prominent entablature. The lower section is adorned with pilasters resting on high bases, centered around the main entrance, which is guarded by a wrought-iron gate and topped with a decorative cornice.
Inside, above the main entrance, visitors are greeted by a striking oil painting by Paolo De Matteis, depicting St. Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier receiving the mission brief from the Pope. The church's interior is further embellished with intricate stuccoes designed by architects Catello Troiano and Onorato Greco in the early 19th century. The main altar and balustrade are adorned with marbles from the old church of the Annunziata in Angri, purchased by the clergy congregation in 1812.
The main altar houses a painting of the Blessed Virgin of Refuge by Luca Giordano. The vault is adorned with a fresco by Vincenzo Galloppi, completed in 1899, depicting the Glory of Christ. Along the nave, visitors can admire six round frescoes of angels bearing the symbols of the Virgin, complemented by additional frescoes in the presbytery area, created by Giuseppe Viraldi in 1832.
Each side chapel offers its own unique charm. The first chapel on the right, originally dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, now honors the Sacred Heart of Jesus, featuring a statue of the Sacred Heart and a statue of St. Joseph with the Child. The second chapel on the right is dedicated to the Virgin of Carmel, housing a statue from the old Carmelite church destroyed to make way for the shipyard. The left side chapels include one dedicated to St. Philomena, featuring a statue of the Annunciation, and another to the Virgin of Sorrows, adorned with a statue of Our Lady and a statue of St. Stanislaus Kostka holding the Child Jesus.
Adjacent to the church is a library established in 1879, initially stocked with books donated by Luigi Calvanico, a bibliophile priest. The collection expanded significantly after World War II, incorporating volumes from the old seminary. Today, the library boasts over 20,000 volumes, covering theology, history, Italian classics, and religious sciences, including the Latin and Greek series of Migne's Patrology.
El Gesù is more than just a place of worship; it is a living testament to the cultural and historical tapestry of Castellammare di Stabia. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a spiritual seeker, a visit to this enchanting church promises a journey through time, filled with artistic marvels and profound serenity.
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