Rocca Malatestiana, majestically perched atop the Garampo hill in the heart of Cesena, Italy, is a fortress that whispers tales of valor, strategic brilliance, and architectural splendor. This formidable stronghold, enveloped by the serene Parco della Rimembranza, stands as a testament to centuries of history, resilience, and transformation.
The saga of Rocca Malatestiana begins with the Rocca antica (ancient fortress), which once stood higher on the hill at Beccavento, beneath the ancient Castrum romanum. This first fortress met its demise around the year 1000, succumbing to a landslide triggered by a flood of the Savio River. Rising from these ruins, the Rocca vecchia (old fortress), also known as the Rocca dell'Imperatore (Emperor's fortress), was constructed further down the hill. This fortress hosted Emperor Frederick II and witnessed the courage of Cia degli Ordelaffi, who valiantly defended it during the siege by Cardinal Albornoz in 1357.
The fortress faced destruction in 1377 at the hands of the Breton army led by Cardinal Robert of Geneva, who later became Antipope Clement VII. The city was plundered and burned, but from the ashes, a new fortress emerged. Under the initiative of Galeotto I. Malatesta in 1380, the Rocca nuova (new fortress) began to take shape. The construction, initially overseen by architect Matteo Nuti and later by the Baldini brothers from Ferrara, spanned two phases: from 1466 to 1470 under Pope Paul II, and from 1475 to 1477 during the reign of Pope Sixtus IV.
Domenico Malatesta Novello, who took over after the untimely death of Galeotto Roberto in 1432, was instrumental in fortifying and renewing the city walls. His efforts left an indelible mark on Cesena, shaping its historic center as we see it today.
Following the death of Domenico Malatesta Novello in 1465, Cesena fell under the control of the Papal States, and the fortress underwent significant renovations to adapt to the advent of firearms. In 1500, Cesare Borgia, known as Il Valentino, declared Cesena the capital of the Romagna county and spent time in the fortress, accompanied by his confidant Michelotto Corella. Borgia's wife, Charlotte d'Albret, and daughter, Luisa, resided in the fortress's noble quarters.
In 1502, Leonardo da Vinci arrived in Cesena, commissioned by Borgia to survey and update the fortifications of the Romagna cities. Da Vinci's work included reliefs of the city walls and designs for the iron gates protecting the main entrance to the Rocca nuova. His influence is evident in the innovative defensive solutions implemented in the fortress, particularly in the bombards on the thick wall of the Rocca nuova, completed in June 1503.
Up until the late 18th century, the Rocca Malatestiana retained its military function. However, following the Napoleonic era, it was repurposed as a prison. Both the Maschio (male) and Femmina (female) towers, along with the Torre del Nuti, named after architect Matteo Nuti, were converted to house inmates. During the 1940s, a bomb shelter was constructed along Viale Mazzoni, capable of accommodating 800 people with ventilation, lighting, and water supply.
The fortress continued to serve as a prison until December 1969, after which it was transferred to the city in 1970. Efforts to dismantle the prison facilities began, and in 1974, the Femmina tower became home to the Museo della Civiltà Contadina (Museum of Rural Culture), the only publicly accessible part of the fortress until 1988. Subsequent restoration and preservation efforts, coupled with exhibitions and various events, rekindled public interest in the Rocca Malatestiana. By June 2003, the walkways and the Maschio tower were reopened to the public.
Today, visitors to Rocca Malatestiana can marvel at its irregular hexagonal shape, with seven outer towers of varying forms (round, rectangular, polygonal) and two inner towers. The fortress's strategic location atop the hill offers commanding views of Cesena and the surrounding plains, underscoring its historical reputation for impregnability.
Upon entering the courtyard, one is greeted by the long east curtain wall on the right, while the expansive lawn on the left slopes upward, dominated by the Maschio and Femmina towers. At the far end of the lower courtyard, the imposing iron gate, once the main entrance to the fortress, stands as a sentinel.
The Femmina tower houses the historical Museum of Agriculture. The basement features two large rooms with vaulted ceilings, showcasing agricultural carts, barouches, and tools. The collection of cavejas, iron rings adorned with clinking rings used to secure ox yokes, is particularly noteworthy.
The first floor offers a glimpse into rural life with a reconstructed kitchen and bedroom, while the second floor's loom room displays images and equipment detailing the entire hemp fiber cycle, from harvest to linen weaving. Adjacent rooms contain tools for grain processing, from large plows to scythes and sieves. The third floor is dedicated to the grape and wine cycle, with historical artifacts and a newly established carpentry workshop.
The hexagonal room in the corner tower serves as the fortress's armory, featuring weapons, helmets, lances, pikes, halberds, flails, bows, crossbows, shields, and swords. Visitors can also see the ancient machicolations and battlements used for defense, as well as the old swallowtail merlons, now enclosed due to the fortress's conversion into a prison. The intermediate floors house small hexagonal rooms with additional tools and equipment.
The final room before exiting displays firearms from various periods between the 16th and 19th centuries. Exiting the Femmina tower, visitors can ascend the stairs to the Maschio tower, which was once isolated from the courtyard. The current entrance was likely added during the fortress's prison conversion. Inside, the high-ceilinged room is illuminated by two small windows, with a large front window added alongside the door. This space now hosts themed exhibitions of ceramics and majolica discovered during archaeological excavations.
Rocca Malatestiana is not merely a historical monument; it is a living chronicle of Cesena's past, embodying the city's resilience, strategic importance, and cultural heritage. A visit to this fortress promises an immersive journey through time, offering a deeper understanding of the region's rich history and the enduring legacy of its fortifications.
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