Church of San Juan Bautista

In the heart of Madrid's Ciudad Lineal district stands the Church of San Juan Bautista, a striking example of neo-Gothic architecture that offers both historical intrigue and aesthetic beauty. This church, known locally as Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, is the only remaining structure from an ambitious early 20th-century project to create a workers' colony on the Cerro de la Cabaña. Surrounded now by modern apartment buildings, it stands as a testament to a bygone era.

The History of the Church of San Juan Bautista

The story of the Church of San Juan Bautista begins with the philanthropic vision of Faustina Peñalver Fauste, the second wife of the Marqués de Amboage. In her will, she dedicated a portion of her fortune to establishing the Barrio obrero de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, a neighborhood designed to provide housing and essential services for workers. The plan included not only homes but also a church, schools, and various community facilities.

Construction of this workers' colony began in 1919, with the church itself completed between 1926 and 1929, designed by architect Benito Guitart Trulls. Originally named in honor of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, the church was later dedicated to San Juan Bautista in 1930. While the housing project was never fully realized, the church remains, embodying the original vision of community and care.

Architectural Features

The Church of San Juan Bautista is a neo-Gothic marvel, constructed with a combination of concrete and brick. Its design features a prominent tower above the entrance, pointed arches, and a rose window framed by an alfiz. The building's layout includes a single nave with a transept and two octagonal spaces flanking the presbytery, one serving as a chapel and the other as a sacristy. The entrance is flanked by two small octagonal volumes, one housing the baptistery and the other the stairs to the choir and tower.

Inside, the church is simple yet elegant, with minimal decoration. The space is divided by pointed arches, and the ceilings are flat, creating a sense of openness and tranquility. The sepulcher of the neighborhood's founder is located on the epistle side of the transept, adding a personal touch to the church's historical narrative.

A Place in Film

The Church of San Juan Bautista has also found fame as a filming location for several Spanish films. Its distinctive architecture and serene ambiance have made it a popular choice for directors seeking a unique backdrop. Films such as Cerca de la ciudad (1952), Los flamencos (1968), and Operación Ogro (1979) have all featured scenes shot in and around this iconic church.

Exploring the Surroundings

While visiting the Church of San Juan Bautista, take the opportunity to explore the vibrant Ciudad Lineal district. This area offers a mix of residential charm and urban convenience, with a variety of shops, cafes, and parks. The church's location provides a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life, making it an ideal spot for reflection and relaxation.

In conclusion, the Church of San Juan Bautista is more than just a place of worship; it is a symbol of historical ambition and architectural achievement. Whether you're drawn by its history, its beauty, or its cinematic connections, a visit to this church offers a unique glimpse into Madrid's rich cultural tapestry. As you stand before its neo-Gothic façade, you'll be reminded of the enduring legacy of community and care that it represents.