Perched gracefully on a hill overlooking the River Lee, the Church of St Anne in Cork, Ireland, stands as a beacon of historical and architectural splendor. This Church of Ireland edifice, constructed between 1722 and 1726, is not just a place of worship but a symbol of Cork's rich heritage and community spirit. The church's iconic tower, with its distinctive red and white stones, is a celebrated landmark that has witnessed centuries of history unfold.
The origins of the Church of St Anne are deeply intertwined with the history of the Shandon district. The name Shandon itself is derived from the Irish term Sean Dún, meaning old fort. A medieval church dedicated to St Mary once stood near this ancient fort, earning a mention in the decretals of Pope Innocent III in 1199 as St Mary on the Mountain. However, this church met its demise during the Williamite wars in 1690.
In 1693, a new church dedicated to St Mary was erected at the bottom of Mallow Lane, now known as Shandon Street. As Cork's population grew, the need for a larger place of worship became evident. Thus, in 1722, the present Church of St Anne was constructed, incorporating stones from the original Shandon Castle and the derelict Franciscan Abbey on the North Mall. This blend of red sandstone and limestone not only gave the church its unique appearance but also inspired a rhyme by 18th-century Catholic priest and writer Father Arthur O'Leary:
Party-coloured, like the people, Red and white stands Shandon Steeple.
The church achieved full parochial status in 1772, with Rev. Arthur Hyde, the great-great-grandfather of Douglas Hyde, becoming its first Rector. Over the years, the Church of St Anne has remained a cornerstone of the community, symbolizing resilience and unity.
One of the most enchanting features of the Church of St Anne is its set of eight bells, immortalized in the 19th-century song The Bells of Shandon by Francis Sylvester Mahony. These bells, originally cast by Abel Rudhall of Gloucester, first rang out on December 7, 1752. To minimize vibration, they were placed in a fixed position and have been recast twice, in 1865 and 1906.
Visitors to the church can experience the joy of ringing these historic bells themselves, thanks to an Ellacombe apparatus installed on the first floor. Each bell bears an inscription that reflects its purpose and history:
The church's tower is a marvel of design and engineering. With walls that are two meters thick and a height of 36.5 meters (120 feet), the tower is topped by a distinctive pepper pot adornment that extends an additional 15 meters (50 feet). The McOsterich family, who played a significant role in the tower's design and construction, enjoy a unique privilege: whenever a family member marries, the bells of St Anne ring out in their honor, no matter where in the world the wedding takes place.
Atop the tower is a weather vane in the shape of a salmon, symbolizing the fishing heritage of the River Lee. This fish has even been referenced in popular culture, such as in the song There's a fish on top of Shandon (swears he's Elvis) by Cork band Five Go Down to the Sea?
The clock on the tower of St Anne's Church is affectionately known to Corkonians as The Four-Faced Liar. This nickname stems from the fact that, depending on the viewer's angle and the wind's effect on the clock hands, the time displayed may not always appear consistent across all four faces. Despite this charming quirk, the clock remains a beloved feature of the church. After a period of inactivity due to maintenance issues, the clock was restarted in September 2014, much to the delight of the local community.
Inside the Church of St Anne, visitors can find a christening font that dates back to 1629, a relic from the church destroyed in the 1690 siege of Cork. The font bears the inscription, Walter Elinton and William Ring made this pant at their charges, and contains a pewter bowl dated 1773, offering a tangible connection to the past.
The Church of St Anne is more than just a historical landmark; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of the Shandon community. With its rich history, iconic bells, and unique architectural features, the church continues to be a place of worship, reflection, and celebration for locals and visitors alike.
Whether you're drawn by the chance to ring the famous bells, explore the church's storied past, or simply take in the breathtaking views from its tower, a visit to the Church of St Anne is an unforgettable experience that captures the heart and soul of Cork.
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