San Michele

San Michele, known locally as Chiesa di San Michele, is a captivating historical and architectural gem nestled in the heart of Cremona, Italy. This ancient church, with its rich history and stunning Romanesque design, offers visitors a glimpse into the past and a chance to explore one of the city's most significant landmarks.

The Historical Journey of San Michele

The origins of San Michele trace back to the Lombard era, with the earliest records of a church on this site dating to the 8th century. Over the centuries, it has undergone numerous transformations, reflecting the evolving architectural styles and the needs of its congregation. By the 11th century, as documented by Bishop Landolfo, the original structure had deteriorated and was no longer sufficient to accommodate the growing number of worshippers. This led to the construction of a new Romanesque church around 1200, which forms the basis of the current edifice.

In the 13th century, San Michele underwent significant renovations, particularly in the main nave, where the Romanesque arches were replaced with Gothic pointed arches. However, the presbytery retained its original Romanesque features. Further modifications were made in the 19th century, including the construction of a new bell tower in 1848, which necessitated the demolition of the left apse. Restoration efforts in the early 20th century aimed to return the church to its 13th-century appearance, removing later additions and restoring the cross vaults.

Architectural Marvels of San Michele

The façade of San Michele is a testament to the simplicity and elegance of Romanesque architecture. Constructed from exposed brick, it features a series of semi-columns that hint at the church's internal division into three naves. A small central rose window and two biforas provide light to the main nave, while a striking visual effect is created by the different coloration of the bricks at the base of the façade, likely due to rising damp from the ground.

The apsidal complex, though missing its two minor apses, remains a point of interest. The semicircular apse is adorned with corbels, reminiscent of fortifications, a feature shared with other churches in Cremona such as San Vincenzo and San Lorenzo. Inside, the church is illuminated by ogival windows added in the 19th century, and the three naves are supported by slender marble columns. The side chapels, created in the 15th century, include a notable triptych by Bernardino Campi depicting the Nativity, Saint Leonard, and Saint Theodora.

The Crypt and Artistic Treasures

San Michele's crypt, also divided into three naves supported by a double row of small columns, houses several capitals dating back to the early medieval period, with one believed to be from the Lombard era. The apse's semi-dome features a large fresco of Christ the Judge, dating to the late 12th century, a relic of the church's original Romanesque construction.

The church's altar, renovated in 2007, was temporarily displayed in the Cremona Cathedral as a tribute to its beauty. The paintings along the naves are frequently loaned to high-profile traveling exhibitions. Among the church's most admired sculptures is the statue of Saint Michael subduing the Beast, positioned to the right of the altar and recognized as one of the most majestic in Europe.

The Enchanting Pipe Organ

At the end of the right side aisle stands San Michele's pipe organ, crafted in 1909 by organ builder Giuseppe Rotelli. Originally located behind the main altar, it was electrified and modified in 1988. Following a restoration and reconstruction by the Micheli organ company in 2013, it was moved to its current location. The organ is fully mechanical, featuring 24 registers and a total of 1562 pipes. Its sound is housed within a case with a double façade, one facing the right side aisle and a secondary one toward the presbytery, beneath which lies the console with two keyboards and a concave pedalboard.

San Michele is not just a church; it is a journey through time, showcasing the rich tapestry of Cremona's religious and architectural history. Whether you're an aficionado of history, art, or architecture, a visit to San Michele offers a rewarding and enlightening experience, revealing the enduring beauty and significance of this remarkable site.