San Michele Arcangelo

The San Michele Arcangelo, locally known as Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo, is a historical gem nestled in the quaint town of Pontorme, a fraction of Empoli in the province of Florence, Italy. This church, with its humble yet captivating facade, stands as a testament to centuries of religious devotion, artistic endeavors, and architectural evolution.

The History of San Michele Arcangelo

The origins of San Michele Arcangelo date back to the 12th century, with the earliest recorded mention on May 27, 1192. At that time, it was referred to as Ecclesia Sancti Angeli de Castello Ponturmi and was recognized as a suffragan of the Empoli parish. Throughout its history, the church witnessed periods of both prosperity and economic hardship. In 1260, the community contributed grain to support the Florentine army, highlighting its significant role within the local society.

During the 14th century, San Michele Arcangelo expanded its influence by establishing a hospital dedicated to Santa Maria within the castle of Pontorme. This period also saw the church transitioning from a bishopric fief to the patronage of the Compagnia di Orsammichele in 1346, and eventually to the local populace in 1363.

The 15th and 16th centuries marked a period of significant architectural and artistic expansion for the church. Six chapels were constructed, and the chapel of the baptismal font, granted by Pope Eugene IV in 1435, was adorned with frescoes. The church also maintained an Opera dedicated to its upkeep and enhancement. By 1572, the patronage had shifted to the Knights of St. Stephen, who commissioned the construction of the Oratory of the Compagnia di San Michele in 1616, designed by Gherardo Mechini.

Further renovations in the 17th and 18th centuries saw the addition of new altars and the acquisition of a fourth bell from the destroyed tower of the Pontorme castle. The church's elevation in 1803 led to the removal of four altars, and between 1815 and 1819, a new bell tower was built, cementing its current architectural form.

Exploring San Michele Arcangelo

Stepping into San Michele Arcangelo is like entering a time capsule that encapsulates the rich history and artistic heritage of Pontorme. The church's interior is a harmonious blend of various artistic styles and periods, reflecting its long and storied past.

One of the highlights is the altar of the Crucifix, located in the last chapel on the right. This serene stone altar, dating back to 1736, houses a miraculous wooden crucifix from the 14th century. Originally part of a larger wooden altar, the crucifix is accompanied by two renowned panels depicting St. John the Evangelist and St. Michael the Archangel, created by the famous painter Pontormo around 1519.

Adjacent to the main chapel is a vast fresco of the Baptism of Christ, attributed to Lorenzo Bonini, a Florentine artist active in Empoli. The centerpiece of this chapel is a 15th-century marble baptismal font, a testament to the church's long-standing sacramental traditions.

The Artistic Treasures

The main altar of San Michele Arcangelo is a masterpiece in itself. The imposing Pala del Santissimo Sacramento, composed of a gilded wooden ciborium and painted panels, stands as a focal point. The wooden architecture and ciborium were likely crafted between 1565 and 1568, while the painted panels are attributed to Girolamo Macchietti. The central figures of St. Michael and St. John the Baptist, painted around 1575-76, echo the grandeur of late 15th-century altarpieces, with influences from contemporaneous works in Florence.

Another notable artwork is the Immaculate Conception by Lodovico Cardi, known as Cigoli. Commissioned by the confraternity in 1589 and placed on the altar in 1590, this painting is a beautiful representation of the shift towards naturalism and away from Mannerism, showcasing Cigoli's pioneering style.

In the left nave, visitors can admire a canvas depicting the Madonna and Child with Saints Dominic, Agatha, and Francis, created by Cesare Dandini around 1640. Dandini's work is characterized by its luminous and precious color palette, typical of his artistic approach.

The Oratory and Beyond

Adjacent to the church is the Oratory of the Compagnia di San Michele Arcangelo, built in 1616 based on Gherardo Mechini's design. The oratory's altar features a painting by Ottavio Vannini, depicting the Apparition of St. Michael the Archangel to the Bishop of Siponto. Although commissioned in 1628, the painting remained unfinished at Vannini's death in 1644, adding a layer of historical intrigue to the piece.

San Michele Arcangelo in Empoli is not just a place of worship; it is a repository of history, art, and culture. Each corner of this church tells a story, from its medieval origins to its Renaissance transformations and beyond. For visitors seeking to immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Tuscany's religious and artistic heritage, San Michele Arcangelo offers an unforgettable journey through time.