The Genoa Cathedral, also known as the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, stands as a beacon of historical and architectural splendor in the heart of Genoa, Italy. This magnificent cathedral, with its distinct black-and-white striped façade, has been a central figure in the city’s religious and cultural life for centuries. As you approach the cathedral, you are immediately struck by its grandeur and the intricate details that tell stories of a bygone era.
The origins of the Genoa Cathedral date back to the early Christian era, with archaeological evidence suggesting that a Christian community existed in the area as early as the 3rd century. The site was initially used as a burial ground, likely during Roman times. A legend tells of Saint Lawrence and Pope Sixtus II stopping in Genoa on their way to Spain, staying in a house where the cathedral now stands. After their martyrdom, a chapel and later a church were built in their honor.
By the 6th or 7th century, a basilica had been established on this site. In the 9th century, the church of San Lorenzo began to function alongside the Basilica of the Twelve Apostles (San Siro) as the city's cathedral. In 1007, the bishop's seat was officially transferred to San Lorenzo, marking the beginning of its prominence.
The construction of the current Romanesque structure began around 1098, funded by the proceeds from the Crusades, military campaigns, and municipal taxes. The cathedral was consecrated by Pope Gelasius II on October 10, 1118. Over the centuries, the cathedral underwent numerous modifications and expansions, reflecting the evolving architectural styles and the city's growing importance.
In the 13th century, the cathedral was extensively remodeled in the Gothic style. The lower part of the façade, characterized by its three Gothic portals, dates from this period. The upper part of the façade and the right bell tower were completed in the early 14th century. The left bell tower, however, remains unfinished, with only its lower section completed and a loggia added in 1455.
The cathedral's interior also saw significant changes, particularly in the 16th century, when the presbytery and apse were damaged by an explosion at the nearby powder magazine. The city council commissioned the architect Galeazzo Alessi to renovate the cathedral, resulting in the addition of a dome and barrel vaults in the nave.
As you step inside the Genoa Cathedral, you are greeted by a majestic basilica layout with three naves separated by marble columns. The combination of Romanesque and Gothic elements creates a unique and awe-inspiring atmosphere. The lower parts of the columns and arches feature alternating black and white stripes, a characteristic of Genoese architecture, while the upper parts retain the original Romanesque stonework.
One of the cathedral's most notable features is the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, located in the left nave. This chapel, rebuilt between 1450 and 1465, houses the relics of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of Genoa, which were brought back from the First Crusade. The chapel's intricate design and the precious relics it contains make it a must-see for visitors.
In the right nave, you will find a remarkable fresco of the Last Supper, painted by Lazzaro Tavarone in 1626. This fresco was originally created for the Ospedale di Pammatone but was moved to the cathedral after the hospital's demolition. Nearby, you can see an English naval shell from World War II, which struck the cathedral on February 9, 1941, without exploding. This unexploded shell is a poignant reminder of the city's resilience during wartime.
The façade of the Genoa Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The three portals, adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures, are the work of French craftsmen who were brought to Genoa in the early 13th century. The central portal features a lunette depicting Christ as Judge, surrounded by the symbols of the four Evangelists. Below, the architrave illustrates the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, while the jambs depict scenes from the life of Christ and the genealogy of Jesus.
The right bell tower, completed in 1522, stands at an impressive 60 meters and houses a set of seven bells. The left bell tower, although unfinished, adds to the cathedral's unique charm with its loggia, built in 1477 by Giovanni da Gandria. The two lions flanking the staircase in front of the cathedral are the work of Carlo Rubatto, added in the 19th century.
At the end of the left nave, you can access the Museum of the Treasure of San Lorenzo, a hidden gem within the cathedral. Designed by the renowned architect Franco Albini and completed in 1956, the museum houses a collection of precious religious artifacts. Among the highlights is the Sacro Catino, a stunning Islamic glass bowl from the 9th or 10th century, believed to be the Holy Grail by some legends.
The Genoa Cathedral is not just a place of worship; it is a testament to the city's rich history and architectural prowess. From its Romanesque roots to its Gothic transformations, the cathedral embodies the spirit and resilience of Genoa. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to the Genoa Cathedral is an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of its beauty and significance.
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