Standing majestically over the Neisse Valley, the Saint Peter and Paul Church, known locally as Pfarrkirche St. Peter und Paul, is a beacon of history and architectural splendor in the charming town of Görlitz, Saxony. This iconic structure, with its copper-clad roof and twin spires, dominates the skyline of the historic old town, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore its rich heritage.
The origins of Saint Peter and Paul Church trace back to around 1230 when a basilica graced this site. The only surviving part of this early structure is the western facade. Over the centuries, the church underwent significant transformations, particularly in the 14th century. The Georgenkapelle, first mentioned in 1378, adds a layer of medieval charm to the church's history.
The construction of the current hall church began in the early 15th century, with the oldest sections of the hall being the western bays of the outer southern aisle. The foundation stone for the choir was laid in 1423 under the direction of master builders Hans Knobloch and Hans Baumgarten. The construction required extensive substrata and the creation of the Georgenkapelle as a crypt, consecrated in 1457 and now forming the choir's basement.
By 1465, the two-story sacristy with an upper gallery for singers was completed. The church's walls were largely in place by 1490, and under the guidance of Conrad Pflüger, with the assistance of Blasius Börer and Urban Laubanisch, the church was vaulted and substantially completed between 1490 and 1497. The first renovation took place between 1590 and 1596, marking the beginning of a series of restorations that have preserved the church's grandeur.
The church's history is also marked by the devastating city fire of 1691, which destroyed the upper floors of the western facade and much of the interior, including 36 altars and a 20-meter-high sacrament house. The roof was restored by 1712, and the church was redecorated in the Baroque style during this period. Notable figures associated with the church include Christian Ludwig Boxberg, who served as the organist from 1702 and is renowned for his cantatas and the opera Sardanapalus.
The church's interior was repainted in 1835, and the towers were elevated to a height of 84 meters with concrete upper floors and spires between 1889 and 1891. World War II brought further damage when the explosion of the Altstadtbrücke on May 7, 1945, shattered all but one of the stained glass windows and caused significant damage to the tracery and roof.
Extensive restorations took place between 1948 and 1961, focusing on the window tracery and the crypt. Further exterior restorations occurred from 1978 to 1981, and the interior was restored from 1981 to 1992, reviving the church's 1500s decor and interior fittings.
Saint Peter and Paul Church, with its length of 72 meters, width of 39 meters, and a central nave height of 24 meters, stands as one of the largest and most significant hall churches in eastern Germany. The church features a five-aisled design with three equally high naves forming the hall church and two significantly lower outer aisles. These outer aisles have vaulted ceilings below the height of the central naves, creating a pseudo-basilican effect.
The central nave, spanning seven bays, leads to a stepped choir with three polygonal apses. The southern aisle houses various chapels between the buttresses. The outer aisles extend to the western side of the late Romanesque western facade, which features a grand portal redesigned in Renaissance forms by Jonas Rosskopf and Melchior Kunze in 1595-96.
Inside, slender profiled pillars without capitals support the network vaults over the aisles and star-shaped vaults in the central nave. The northern aisle boasts elaborate windows with fish bladder tracery, similar to those in the southern aisle of the Bautzen Cathedral. The remaining narrow windows feature simpler tracery designs with crossbow motifs. In the western part of the outer aisles, the vaulting begins with corbel heads.
The southwest porch's interior is a late Gothic architectural masterpiece inspired by Peter Parler, combining a rectangular space with an inserted three-sided canopy. Flanking the portal are figure niches with broad platforms and a hanging frieze with corbel heads.
The church's altar, crafted by George Heermann from Dresden in 1695, is a stunning piece of art made from sandstone and polished stucco marble. The altar is divided into a base section with side passages, a curved three-part main section with columns, pilasters, and gables, and a tall top section with a broken gable, all richly adorned with figures. The main section depicts the instruments of Christ's Passion, while the lower section's volutes feature angel figures. The upper section showcases the Evangelists, and the topmost section represents the Christian virtues. The central image portrays the Ascension of Christ, inspired by Raphael's Transfiguration, and the predella depicts the Entombment of Christ. The iron altar grille dates back to 1698.
The pulpit, dated 1693, features a pulpit body and staircase made of sandstone with rich plant ornamentation in white and gold, supported by a life-size angel. The coat of arms above the angel commemorates the donor, Leipzig merchant August Kober. The pulpit's basket displays the four Evangelists, and the wooden sound cover features various apostles, prophets, and saints, likely crafted by sculptor Johann Conrad Buchau.
The council pew, created by Johann Conrad Buchau between 1694 and 1695, occupies a prominent position under the organ gallery, offering an excellent view of the entire church. Above the pew is the four-part Görlitz city coat of arms, as granted by Emperor Charles V. The flanking carvings depict allegorical figures of wealth and justice. The church once had numerous special seats reserved for certain families or landowners, with a total of 3,180 seats in 1696, for which parishioners paid an annual fee. At the east end of the aisles are three ornate wooden confessionals, with the one in the outer northern aisle crafted by Caspar Gottlob von Rodewitz in 1717 and the other two in the northern and southern side apses dating to around 1694.
Numerous epitaphs enhance the church's interior. The most splendid epitaph, likely designed by Caspar Gottlob von Rodewitz for city scribe Christian Moller von Mollerstein (died 1714), is made of alabaster, marble, and sandstone by Johann Matthäus Oberschall and is located in the north aisle. Other notable epitaphs include those for city scribe Gottfried Gerlach (died 1737) from 1741 and Baron Rudolph Ferdinand Silwer von Silwerstein with an exceptionally ornate frame, also in the north aisle. The altar pillars feature monuments to clergyman Christoph Seifert (died 1702), who was the chief pastor during the post-1691 fire reconstruction, and Christiane Luisa von Gersdorf (died 1779) from 1783. Several portraits of pastors from the 16th to 19th centuries adorn the sacristy wall.
The baptismal chapel in the western bay of the outer north aisle is enclosed by an elaborate wrought iron grille created by Hans Mantler in 1617. A stained glass window from 1893, depicting the twelve-year-old Jesus in the temple, survived the explosion of the Neisse Bridge during World War II.
The church's most famous feature is the Sonnenorgel (Sun Organ) facade, created in 1703 by Johann Conrad Buchau for the original organ built by Eugenio Casparini. The current organ, built by the Swiss firm Mathis Orgelbau in 1997, 2004, and 2006, was further expanded in 2021 and now boasts 91 registers on four manuals and a pedal. The facade is adorned with 17 suns, each surrounded by equally long organ pipes representing sun rays. Twelve of these suns are functional, forming a twelve-fold pedal mixture.
The church has four bells, two of which are historic remnants of the original six-bell peal. Bells 2-4 are located between the two towers in a steel bell frame, while bell 1 hangs in a wooden frame in the north tower. The south tower houses an antenna system. Due to structural issues, bell 2 is currently silent. The original Great Bell, cast by Joachim Hannibal Brors in 1696, was one of the most significant historic bells until it was melted down in 1917. It had a striking tone of D0 and weighed approximately 10,900 kg with a diameter of 246 cm.
In conclusion, Saint Peter and Paul Church is not just a place of worship; it is a testament to the resilience and artistic prowess of Görlitz through the ages. Its walls echo with stories of devotion, artistry, and history, making it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting this picturesque town.
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