Great Synagogue

The Great Synagogue in Iași, known locally as Sinagoga Mare din Iași, is a beacon of history and culture nestled in the heart of Romania. This majestic structure, built between 1657 and 1671, stands as the oldest Jewish religious edifice in Romania still in use today. Located on Synagogue Street, in the northern part of the city center, it once shared its neighborhood with eight other synagogues, forming the vibrant Jewish quarter of Targu Cucului before World War II.

The Historical Tapestry of the Great Synagogue

The Great Synagogue's storied past is woven with resilience and reverence. Its construction began in the mid-17th century, likely spearheaded by Rabbi Nathan ben Moses Hannover, the spiritual leader of Iași's Jewish community at the time. In 1666, Alexandru IV Iliaș, the Prince of Moldavia, granted a charter allowing the local Jews to establish a school and a synagogue, cementing the foundation for this enduring place of worship.

Initially, the synagogue was likely built of wood, adhering to the restrictions imposed by Prince Dimitrie Cantemir, which prohibited the use of stone for Jewish places of worship. However, it was later reconstructed in masonry, and despite the law that no Jewish building could surpass the height of the Metropolitan Cathedral, the synagogue was ingeniously designed with its ground floor partially below street level, ensuring it remained the tallest structure in the area.

Over the centuries, the Great Synagogue has faced numerous challenges. It was severely damaged by fire in 1822, necessitating extensive restoration of its interior, including the paintings and woodwork. Further renovations took place in 1914, and again after the devastating earthquake of 1977, under the guidance of Dr. Moses Rosen, the Chief Rabbi of Romania, and Simion Caufman, the president of the Iași Jewish community.

Architectural Marvels and Sacred Spaces

The Great Synagogue is a testament to architectural ingenuity and spiritual devotion. Constructed from stone and brick, the building boasts walls a meter thick, ensuring its durability through the ages. The synagogue reaches a height of 22 meters, with its ground floor partially submerged below street level, a clever design choice that allowed it to comply with historical height restrictions while maintaining its prominence.

The eastern side of the synagogue is dominated by a grand hemispherical dome, crowned with a spherical lantern and a Star of David. This dome, added in the early 20th century, adds a striking visual element to the building. The western facade features a two-story structure with a half-barrel roof, perpendicular to the main axis of the synagogue, marking the entrance.

Inside, the synagogue is a harmonious blend of Sephardic and Ashkenazi influences, with an eclectic architectural style that incorporates baroque elements typical of religious buildings in Bohemia, Poland, and Russia during that period. The entrance hall, located about a meter below street level, leads to the main prayer hall, which is further accessed by descending a few steps.

The prayer hall is a baroque masterpiece, featuring a vaulted nave divided by a central arch under which the Bimah stands, flanked by imposing chandeliers. The walls are painted white, except for the eastern wall, which is almost entirely covered by the richly decorated Holy Ark. This Ark, renovated in 1866, is adorned with intricate wood carvings painted in black, red, and green, and is crowned with gilded wooden eagles. The Torah scrolls are housed behind a velvet Parokhet, embroidered with golden silk and featuring the Tablets of the Law, a crown, and two lions.

Memorials and Modern-Day Reverence

In front of the Great Synagogue stands an obelisk, erected in 1976 to honor the victims of the Iași pogrom of June 28-29, 1941. This poignant memorial is also listed as a historical monument, bearing a marble plaque inscribed with a tribute to the victims of the fascist pogrom.

Despite the passage of time and the many trials it has faced, the Great Synagogue remains a vital part of Iași's Jewish community. It is one of only two synagogues in the city where religious services are still held. The synagogue underwent significant restoration work starting in 2008, funded by the National Heritage Institute, ensuring its preservation for future generations.

A Living Monument

Visiting the Great Synagogue is not just a journey into the past, but a celebration of enduring faith and community. The synagogue's eclectic architecture, historical significance, and the resilience of the Jewish community it serves make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Iași. As you walk through its hallowed halls, you can feel the weight of history and the spirit of a community that has withstood the test of time, making the Great Synagogue a true treasure of Romania.