Castello San Giorgio, majestically perched on the hill of Poggio overlooking the city of La Spezia, is a testament to the rich historical tapestry of the region. This ancient Genoese fortress, with its commanding views of the city and the Ligurian Sea, invites visitors to step back in time and explore its storied past and architectural marvels.
The origins of Castello San Giorgio date back to 1262 when Nicolò Fieschi, a nobleman with aspirations to establish his dominion over La Spezia, decided to expand an existing early medieval fort. However, the castle's fate took a dramatic turn in 1273 when the forces of the Republic of Genoa, led by Oberto Doria, defeated Fieschi's troops, sacked the castle, and forced Fieschi to cede part of his possessions to the Republic.
In 1343, the Genoese doge Simone Boccanegra elevated La Spezia to the status of a podestà, a significant administrative center, which led to the restoration of the castle. However, the castle and the city faced further destruction in 1365 during the siege by the mercenary company of Ambrogio Visconti. The castle was rebuilt in 1371, and this period also saw the construction of new defensive walls around the town, remnants of which still stand today.
Castello San Giorgio's architecture is a fascinating blend of medieval and later additions. The castle is composed of two contiguous quadrangular layouts. The upper part of the castle still retains medieval masonry incorporated into structures from subsequent periods. Notably, a square-plan element, believed to be the tower of the original early medieval building, stands as a testament to the castle's ancient origins.
The 14th-century defensive walls, partially visible today, are constructed with carefully arranged stone ashlars and feature larger squared corner elements. These walls are punctuated by narrow vertical slits designed for archers. The introduction of artillery in the mid-15th century necessitated the construction of thicker walls with sloping profiles and embrasures for firearms, adapting the castle to the changing nature of warfare.
Inside the castle, the vaulted rooms date back to the early 17th century when the Genoese government undertook significant renovations. To enhance the castle's resistance to bombardment, the perimeter walls were filled with compacted wet earth, providing a flexible yet sturdy defense. The bastions on the east and northwest sides were entirely clad with new masonry, which remains visible today.
Visitors to Castello San Giorgio can enter through one of two gates, the northern and western entrances. The western gate is adorned with the coat of arms of Genoa and a bas-relief depicting the legendary battle between Saint George and the dragon. Beneath the entrance portal, the remains of the original medieval drawbridge are still visible in the green space in front of the castle.
A tower with Guelph crenellations, designed to protect archers, guards the entrance portal from the right, ensuring a robust defense against potential attackers. As you wander through the castle, you'll encounter a variety of defensive features and architectural details that provide insight into the castle's evolution over the centuries.
Throughout its history, Castello San Giorgio has undergone numerous transformations. In 1443, the medieval structure was significantly altered with the addition of a lower section designed for the use of firearms. In 1554, further defensive works were carried out, including the construction of the Bastia, an important supporting fortification to the northeast of the castle.
In 1606, the Genoese Republic decided to modify and strengthen the castle by building a new, larger, and more modern quadrangular structure with polygonal bastions at the corners. The thick, sloped base of the new construction was separated from the vertical upper walls by a simple sandstone border. Watchtowers with wide embrasures for cannons were built at the corners of the walls, enhancing the castle's defensive capabilities.
During the 19th century, the Kingdom of Sardinia undertook efforts to reorganize the defensive works in the La Spezia area, including plans to build a new hospital on the site of the castle. Fortunately, these plans were abandoned, and the castle was preserved. In the 20th century, restoration efforts were initiated by the municipality, with significant work carried out in the 1970s and 1980s to restore the castle to its former glory.
Today, Castello San Giorgio is home to the archaeological collections of the Ubaldo Formentini Museum. The museum boasts a rich array of Lunigiana stele statues, extraordinary anthropomorphic sculptures from the Copper and Iron Ages, and artifacts from the ancient city of Luni, including statues, portraits, and mosaics.
Visiting Castello San Giorgio offers a unique opportunity to delve into the history of La Spezia and the surrounding region. As you explore the castle's ancient walls, you'll be transported back in time, gaining a deeper appreciation for the architectural and historical significance of this remarkable fortress.
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