Santi Materno e Lucia

Nestled in the charming quarter of Pescarenico in Lecco, Italy, the Santi Materno e Lucia, known locally as Chiesa dei Santi Materno e Lucia, stands as a testament to centuries of history and architectural evolution. This captivating church, intertwined with literary fame, offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past, blending religious significance with cultural heritage.

The Historical Tapestry of Santi Materno e Lucia

The origins of Santi Materno e Lucia date back to 1576, when it was commissioned by Hurtado de Mendoza, a knight of Sant'Jago and governor of the Lecco plain, under the directive of San Carlo Borromeo. Initially dedicated to San Francesco d'Assisi, the church served the adjacent Convent of the Capuchin Friars. This site gained literary fame through Alessandro Manzoni's masterpiece, I Promessi Sposi, where it is notably mentioned as the convent of Fra Cristoforo.

Over the centuries, the church has undergone numerous transformations. It was repurposed as a barracks for French troops in 1789, and following the suppression of the convent in 1810 by Napoleon Bonaparte, the church was rededicated to San Materno and later also to Santa Lucia, likely as a homage to Manzoni. The 19th century saw significant renovations, including a redesign of the façade by the local architect Giuseppe Bovara. Recognized for its historical value, the church was declared a national monument in 1940.

Architectural Splendor

The church's architecture is a delightful blend of simplicity and elegance, characteristic of Franciscan structures. Its single nave design is complemented by a gabled roof and transverse arches. The rectangular presbytery, crowned with a barrel vault, and the square-shaped apse add to its architectural charm.

Exterior Features

The façade of Santi Materno e Lucia is a striking example of neoclassical design, featuring four decorative pilasters with Ionic capitals and a triangular pediment. A central bifora window graces the façade, flanked by two simpler windows. To the right, the entrance to the former Capuchin Convent is seamlessly integrated into the church's structure.

Adjacent to the church is the Chapel of San Gregorio, which serves as the base for the bell tower built in the 20th century, complementing the 18th-century triangular bell tower known as the Campaniletto. Across the square lies a somber ossuary from 1699, housing the remains of Franciscans who perished during the plague of 1630, a tragic event vividly depicted by Manzoni.

Interior Treasures

Inside, the church maintains its Franciscan simplicity, enhanced by exquisite art and furnishings. The main altar, dating back to the 16th century, is a focal point, surrounded by wooden ceiling decorations featuring musical angels and depictions of Virtues and Evangelists, crafted by Luigi Tagliaferri in the early 20th century.

The left side of the nave houses several chapels. The Chapel of the Crucifix, with its 18th-century marble altar and balustrades, and the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, where the Spanish governor Hurtado de Mendoza is interred, are particularly noteworthy. The latter features a wooden altar combining elements from the late 16th and 19th centuries. Another chapel showcases nine glass cases containing polychrome wax compositions from the late 17th century, depicting scenes from the New Testament and the lives of Saints Francis and Clare.

The Capuchin Convent

Though suppressed in 1810, remnants of the Capuchin Convent remain, including a large square courtyard. Some original spaces have been restored and are accessible to visitors, such as the well and cloister, famously mentioned in Manzoni's novel as the Loggiato delle noci.

Visiting Santi Materno e Lucia is not just an exploration of a religious site; it's a journey through time, where history, literature, and architecture converge. This enchanting church continues to captivate all who step through its doors, offering a serene escape into the past amidst the picturesque setting of Lecco. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a literary buff, or simply a traveler seeking beauty, Santi Materno e Lucia promises an unforgettable experience.