St Michael on Greenhill, majestically perched on the sandstone ridge of Greenhill, offers a captivating glimpse into Lichfield’s rich tapestry of history and spirituality. This enchanting parish church, with its roots tracing back to 1190, stands as a testament to centuries of devotion and architectural evolution. Its commanding presence and historical significance make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the quaint city of Lichfield.
Long before the current structure graced Greenhill, the site was revered as a place of spiritual significance. The churchyard, sprawling across nine acres, is one of the largest and most ancient in England. This sacred ground is steeped in lore, with local legends suggesting it was consecrated by Saint Augustine himself. The churchyard's vast expanse hints at its historical role as a principal burial site, possibly for early Christians or even as a tribal necropolis.
Archaeological finds, such as Mesolithic flint remains, suggest that this was one of the earliest settlements in Lichfield. The site’s ancient roots are further evidenced by crouched burials, a practice more common before the Norman Conquest. As you wander through the churchyard, you might feel the echoes of the past whispering through the ancient trees and weathered gravestones.
The medieval origins of St Michael’s are still visible, with parts of the current building dating back to the 13th century. The west tower, constructed in the 15th century with local red sandstone, boasts a perpendicular style and a recessed spire. Although the spire was once toppled by a storm in 1594, it was lovingly rebuilt, complete with a weathercock, in 1601.
In the 19th century, the church underwent significant restoration under the guidance of local architect Thomas Johnson. This transformation included re-roofing the nave, repairing the aisles, and introducing new perpendicular windows. The restoration efforts continued with Sydney Smirke’s work on the chancel, which saw the creation of a stunning three-light east window.
Step inside St Michael’s, and you’ll find a treasure trove of historical artifacts and architectural marvels. The floor slab in the nave commemorates the family of Samuel Johnson, the renowned literary figure, marking the resting place of his parents and brother. This slab, installed in 1884, bears the inscription composed by Johnson himself.
Above the chancel arch, the royal arms of Queen Anne serve as a heraldic reminder of the church’s loyalty to the crown. The font, dating from 1669, is a beautiful octagonal piece adorned with stylized fleur-de-lis and Tudor roses. Don’t miss the tomb of William de Walton, the church’s first recorded benefactor, nestled in a recess under a pointed arch.
Outside, the churchyard invites exploration with its array of intriguing graves and monuments. Among them is the grave of Trumpeter John Brown, famed for sounding the trumpet during the Charge of the Light Brigade. Another poignant marker is the gravestone of three men hanged for forgery in 1810, their initials and date etched into history.
The mausoleum of James Thomas Law, a canopied structure once topped with a clock, stands on the churchyard’s northern edge. Though now overgrown, it remains a Grade II Listed Building, echoing tales of time gone by. Additionally, the churchyard houses a Screen Wall Memorial, commemorating service personnel from both World Wars.
Today, St Michael on Greenhill continues to serve as an active parish church, forming part of the United Benefice with St Mary’s and St John’s at Wall. Regular services, weddings, baptisms, and funerals bring the community together, while the churchyard is preserved as a wildlife haven, blending history with nature.
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of architecture, or simply seeking a moment of tranquility, St Michael on Greenhill offers a captivating journey through time. Its storied past and enduring presence make it an unmissable destination in the heart of Lichfield.
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