Église Saint-Jacques, known locally as église Saint-Jacques de Lisieux, stands as a magnificent testament to Gothic architecture in the heart of Lisieux, France. This historic church, with its towering spires and intricate stonework, has been a focal point of the community for centuries, inviting visitors to step back in time and marvel at its grandeur.
The tale of Église Saint-Jacques begins in 1448 when construction commenced on the site of an earlier chapel that had been expanded in 1132. The church was officially dedicated on June 1, 1540, under the episcopate of Cardinal Jean Le Veneur. The master mason behind this architectural marvel was Guillemot de Samaison, a renowned builder from Lisieux. The church's construction was a community effort, with many notable bourgeois families of Lisieux contributing to the project, their generosity immortalized in the coats of arms adorning the church's keystones.
By 1870, the parish of Église Saint-Jacques boasted a population of 10,000 to 11,000, making it the most populous in the diocese of Bayeux and Lisieux. In 1910, the church was officially classified as a historical monument, a testament to its architectural and cultural significance. However, in 1965, following the merger of the communes of Lisieux and Saint-Jacques, the church was desacralized and ceased to function as a place of worship. Today, it serves as a cultural venue, opening its doors to the public only for special exhibitions.
Église Saint-Jacques is a prime example of Gothic architecture, characterized by its soaring vertical lines and intricate detailing. Unlike many Gothic churches, it lacks a transept, giving it a unique layout. The church was built on a slope, with the choir at ground level and the façade elevated on a series of steps. This elevation enhances the grandeur of the main portal, topped by a somewhat somber bell tower covered in slate, which appears unfinished.
Step inside Église Saint-Jacques, and you'll be greeted by a light and elegant interior. The church comprises three naves of equal length, flanked by chapels on either side. The structure is supported by two rows of cylindrical columns, their capitals seamlessly blending into the ribbed vaults above. The interior decoration is a feast for the eyes, with stunning stained glass windows, painted vaults, and ornately decorated columns and pillars bearing inscriptions, medallions, and painted statues.
The stained glass windows of Église Saint-Jacques are among its most treasured features. The oldest windows in the choir date back to 1501. One of the most remarkable windows, located in the north nave, depicts a splendid Renaissance scene from the Apocalypse, featuring the great prostitute of Babylon. Another notable window in the Chapel of Charity illustrates a miracle of Saint James, inspired by the Golden Legend. The six windows in the apse were fitted with stained glass in the 19th century by artists Marette and Duhamel from Évreux, with the exception of the crucifixion scene, which retains much of its original glass. Modern stained glass windows were installed after World War II, adding a contemporary touch to this historic edifice.
Before the French Revolution, Église Saint-Jacques boasted eleven bells. Today, the bell tower houses three bells, the largest of which was cast in 1712 by the famous bell founder Jean Aubert from Lisieux. The other two bells date from 1832, continuing the church's long tradition of ringing out over the city.
Église Saint-Jacques once housed an impressive array of furnishings. The Renaissance-era choir stalls featured richly carved panels, while the lower stalls, dating from the reign of Louis XIV, came from the former abbey of Val-Richer. The organ, crafted by M. Luce of Lisieux, was adorned with floral-style woodwork designed by Abbé Tournesac of Le Mans and executed by sculptor M. Léonard of Lisieux. The church also possessed two small gilded wooden reliquaries from the 18th century, believed to have originated from the former Saint-Germain church in Lisieux. These reliquaries, made in 1717, contained the relics of saints Victor, Contest, Fructose, and Joconde, brought from Rome by a man named Trouplin. The altar of Saint-Jacques, acquired in 1869, was crafted in Munich, Bavaria, and installed alongside the mosaic paving of the choir.
Today, Église Saint-Jacques stands as a cultural landmark in Lisieux. While it no longer serves as a place of worship, its historical and architectural significance continues to draw visitors from near and far. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to Église Saint-Jacques offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich heritage of Lisieux and the enduring beauty of Gothic architecture.
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