Old Fortress

Rising majestically at the edge of the Medici Port in Livorno, the Old Fortress, known locally as Fortezza Vecchia, is a remarkable testament to the city's rich and turbulent history. This grand structure, a product of centuries of modifications and reconstructions, encapsulates the entire historical narrative of Livorno, from its ancient origins to the present day.

The Origins of the Old Fortress

The area where the Old Fortress stands has been a site of human settlement since ancient times. Archaeological evidence reveals remnants of a village from the transition period between the Bronze Age and the Iron Age. Layers of Etruscan and Roman artifacts further attest to the long-standing significance of this location.

In medieval times, the original core of the fortress consisted of a square tower situated at the edge of Porto Pisano, the significant port that stretched between Pisa and the then-small village of Livorno. This ancient tower, though reduced in height, remains visible today. A second, circular tower was later erected nearby, traditionally attributed to Matilda of Canossa, although historical evidence for this is lacking.

By the latter half of the 14th century, the two towers were connected by a defensive wall commissioned by the Republic of Pisa. This structure, known as the Quadratura dei Pisani or Rocca Nuova, replaced an earlier wooden palisade. The Quadratura dei Pisani, built around 1377, was a nearly square fortification with sides measuring approximately 25x25x28x18 meters. It housed various accommodations and storage facilities and stood about 4.8 meters above sea level. The brick walls, as seen today, were topped with battlements and patrol walkways.

The Transformation into a Fortress

The transformation of the Old Fortress into its current form began in the 16th century when the Medici family took control of Livorno. Under the direction of Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, construction commenced in 1519 and concluded in 1534 under Duke Alessandro de' Medici. A commemorative plaque on the fortress walls marks this completion date.

Grand Duke Cosimo I de' Medici later commissioned the construction of a palace within the fortress to serve as his residence during his frequent visits to Livorno. Completed around 1546, this palace was built atop the Quadratura dei Pisani, dominating the fortress's skyline. Additionally, Cosimo I ordered the construction of a residence for his entourage outside the fortress, now known as the Palazzo Mediceo.

Cosimo's successor, Francesco I, added a small palace facing the sea and a chapel dedicated to St. Francis, where the elevation of Livorno to city status was celebrated in 1606. During the Napoleonic occupation, the fortress's bastions were heightened with a high parapet wall featuring rifle loopholes and cannon embrasures. A visual telegraph was also installed atop the Matilda Tower during this period.

The fortress served various roles over the centuries, including a military barracks and a prison. It suffered significant damage during World War II, with the destruction of Cosimo's Palace and most buildings on the ramparts, except for the sturdy Matilda Tower. Restoration efforts began in the 1970s, returning much of the complex to the public.

Exploring the Old Fortress

The Old Fortress features an asymmetrical design with three bastions: Ampolletta facing the city, Canaviglia towards the port, and Capitana to the northeast. Initially, a fourth bastion was planned to face northwest towards the open sea. The bastions and curtain walls are brick-clad with a distinctive heart shape, a design pioneered by the Sangallo brothers. Originally, access to the fortress was exclusively by sea, facilitated by a canal dug between 1522 and 1523 to isolate it completely. Visitors would arrive at a small dock and enter through the imposing Porta del Duca, an entrance adorned with Vada stone and a Medici coat of arms bearing Duke Alessandro's motto: Under one faith and law, one Lord alone.

Inside, visitors can explore the Guard Courtyard, a porticoed area with octagonal pillars and semi-circular arches. A ramp for horses and carriages, flanked by pedestrian stairs, leads to the upper level of the fortress, dominated by the Matilda Tower, Francesco I's Palace, and other smaller buildings, including the Church of St. Francis. The church, once part of a larger structure, now features a façade added after wartime devastation.

The upper level also housed the garrison's quarters, capable of accommodating up to five thousand people, Cosimo I's Palace, and a water cistern with a natural filtration system. Another ramp descends to an underground gallery along the walls facing the Old Dock, connecting the Ampolletta and Canaviglia bastions. A second gallery extends from Canaviglia to the Quadratura dei Pisani, while a third passage runs along the fortress's northern side. These galleries were used for distributing and storing equipment and assessing damage during conflicts.

The Capitana Bastion is notable for housing a powder magazine that exploded during World War II, causing a vertical displacement of the bastion and a partial collapse of its internal vault. Inside the Matilda Tower, visitors can find the coats of arms of commanders who served at the fortress, surviving the French destruction of 1799. The tower also housed a chapel where a mass was held in May 1790.

Despite the extensive damage from the last war, the 16th-century curtain walls remain largely intact. To enhance accessibility, restorers installed a characteristic metal walkway around the fortress's perimeter, offering a stunning aerial view of the Quadratura dei Pisani and the adjacent square tower.

The Old Fortress, with its rich history and architectural marvels, stands as a symbol of Livorno's resilience and strategic importance. It offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past, where each stone and brick tells a story of a bygone era. A visit to this fortress is not just a journey through history but an experience that brings to life the enduring spirit of Livorno.