The Lodi Cathedral, known locally as Duomo di Lodi, stands as a beacon of architectural splendor and historical significance in the charming city of Lodi, Lombardy. This magnificent cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary (Santa Maria Assunta), is not only the primary place of Catholic worship in the city but also the seat of the Bishop of Lodi. As one of the largest churches in Lombardy and the oldest monument in Lodi, the cathedral's rich history and stunning architecture make it a must-visit destination for any traveler.
The origins of Lodi Cathedral date back to the 12th century, with its foundation stone symbolically laid on August 3, 1158, the same day the city of Lodi was founded. The construction of this Romanesque masterpiece began shortly after, utilizing materials from the ancient city of Laus Pompeia. The initial phase of construction spanned from 1158 to 1163, during which the crypt was solemnly inaugurated with the translation of Saint Bassiano's relics in the presence of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa.
The cathedral we see today underwent several phases of construction and renovation. The façade, for instance, was completed in 1284 with the addition of a Gothic portico. In the early 16th century, under the auspices of the apostolic administrator Claudio di Seyssel, the cathedral saw significant restorations and modernizations, including the addition of Renaissance-style bifore windows and a new rose window. The 18th-century restorations by architect Francesco Croce altered the cathedral’s original appearance, which was later restored between 1958 and 1965.
The exterior of Lodi Cathedral is a testament to the Romanesque style, characterized by its asymmetrical brick façade adorned with a series of arches. The Gothic portico, added in 1285, is a striking feature supported by slender columns resting on stone lions. The lunette above the portico depicts Saint Bassiano, the Madonna, and Christ in a blessing pose, with the inscription REX on the halo surrounding His head. The portico's pilasters house statues of Adam and Eve and grotesque telamons supporting the architrave, showcasing the craftsmanship of the Campione masters who repurposed statues from the Piacenza Cathedral.
Other notable elements include the large central rose window and the Renaissance-style bifore windows, reminiscent of those at the Certosa di Pavia, likely crafted by the school of Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. A bronze statue of Saint Bassiano, a copy of the original 1284 gilded copper statue, stands in an edicule. The massive bell tower, designed by Callisto Piazza between 1538 and 1554, remains incomplete due to military safety concerns.
Adjacent to the cathedral, visitors can explore the courtyard of the canons, the remnants of the ancient cloister built by Giovanni Battagio in 1484, adorned with brick columns and decorations. The cathedral also offers access to the rich Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, housing an array of religious artifacts.
Stepping inside Lodi Cathedral reveals a basilica plan with three naves separated by round arches resting on cylindrical brick pillars, all covered by cross vaults. The side aisles are topped with matronea that open onto the central nave with bifore windows. The elevated last bay of the central nave and the apse form the ancient presbytery, featuring a baroque high altar made of polychrome marble. In front of the old presbytery, the new altar, created after the Second Vatican Council, features a red Verona marble sarcophagus.
The cathedral's interior is home to significant works of art, including a polyptych by Callisto Piazza depicting the Massacre of the Innocents, another polyptych by Alberto Piazza featuring the Assumption of the Virgin, and a 15th-century Last Judgment. A painting by Giulio Cesare Procaccini, depicting the Madonna della Neve appearing to Pope Liberius, also graces the cathedral. The large apse basin is adorned with a mosaic by Aligi Sassu.
Behind the baroque altar, the 1835 pipe organ by the Serassi brothers, housed in a modern wooden case, stands as a testament to the cathedral's rich musical heritage. The organ, with fully mechanical transmission, features two keyboards and a pedalboard, boasting 54 registers.
The crypt, the oldest part of the cathedral, features a 12th-century bas-relief of the Last Supper at its entrance. Originally, the floor was 65 cm higher, and the vaults were supported by brick pillars. The central altar, dating back to 1856, houses the relics of Saint Bassiano in a silver case crafted by Antonio Cassani, with engravings by Giosuè Argenti and a repoussé copper sheet by Tilio Nani depicting episodes from the saint's life. To the left of the main altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173. Both saints' bodies were recomposed and dressed in 1994.
In the left apsidiole, visitors can find a 15th-century sculptural group depicting the Lamentation over the Dead Christ, with mournful figures locally known as the caragnòn del Dòmm.
In conclusion, Lodi Cathedral is not just a religious monument but a symbol of the city's enduring spirit and rich cultural heritage. Its walls echo the stories of centuries past, inviting visitors to explore and appreciate the artistry and history that have shaped this remarkable edifice.
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