San Michele in Foro

San Michele in Foro, or Chiesa di San Michele in Foro as it's known locally, stands as a stunning testament to the Romanesque architectural splendor in the heart of Lucca, Italy. Nestled in the northeastern corner of Piazza San Michele, this imposing basilica is a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich historical tapestry of Tuscany. The church's name, in Foro, hints at its ancient roots, as it was built on the site of the old Roman forum, the bustling marketplace of ancient Lucca.

The Architectural Marvel of San Michele in Foro

The exact construction timeline of San Michele in Foro remains a mystery, but a date inscribed on the left pillar of the chancel arch, 1143, offers a tantalizing clue, suggesting a consecration around that time. The church's construction spanned several centuries, with significant work on its façade and exterior continuing into the latter half of the 13th century. The basilica's design features three naves, a transept, and a semicircular apse, with a bell tower rising above the southern arm of the transept. This tower's battlements were modified in the 18th century with a classical half-story addition.

The Grand Façade and Southern Side

One of the most striking features of San Michele in Foro is its grandiose façade, which was constructed around 1200 for a taller nave that was never completed, resulting in a façade that towers disproportionately over the church behind it. This façade is a masterpiece of Romanesque art, adorned with an array of columns, niches, and cornices. The upper levels of the façade feature a series of dwarf galleries, a decorative element that was later extended to the southern wall of the nave, creating a harmonious visual effect.

The façade's design is attributed to influences from Pisa and Lombard architect Guidetto da Como, who also worked on Lucca's cathedral. The elongated proportions of the dwarf galleries and the overall façade are considered precursors to Gothic architecture. The façade's intricate detailing includes columns with sculpted shafts, some adorned with figures and others with ornamental marble inlays depicting animals and plants. The gable is crowned with a statue of the Archangel Michael, the church's patron saint, flanked by two trumpet-blowing angels on Gothic-style aedicules.

At the southwestern corner of the façade, a Madonna with Child statue by Matteo Civitali, known as Madonna Salutis Portus, was added in 1479/80 to commemorate the end of a plague. This statue has since been replaced by a copy, with the original now housed inside the church.

The Interior and Its Treasures

Stepping inside San Michele in Foro, visitors are greeted by a three-nave basilica with a simple yet elegant design. The medieval wooden ceiling was replaced with a vaulted ceiling in 1512, altering the interior's original appearance. Above the vault, a medieval fresco band has been preserved, offering a glimpse into the church's artistic heritage.

The most significant piece inside the church is a large painted crucifix from around 1200 or 1230, originally hung under the triumphal arch and later moved to the northern sidewall. Today, it graces the high altar, drawing the eye with its flat stucco relief and painted surface depicting the crucified Christ surrounded by smaller painted scenes.

Beneath the altar lie the relics of Saint Davino Armeno, an Armenian pilgrim who died in Lucca around 1050. Canonized in 1159, his remains are venerated by pilgrims and visitors alike, adding a layer of spiritual significance to the church's historical and architectural grandeur.

Symbolism and Restoration

The church's façade is a treasure trove of symbolic elements, with numerous details carrying deeper meanings. During a comprehensive restoration in 1866, some damaged sculptures were replaced with new creations, including portraits of contemporary figures like Pope Pius IX, Napoleon III, Vittorio Emanuele II, and Camillo Cavour. The capitals of the columns feature a variety of motifs, from animal and plant forms to intricate geometric patterns, each telling its own story.

Conclusion

San Michele in Foro is more than just a church; it is a living chronicle of Lucca's rich history and artistic heritage. Its towering façade, intricate sculptures, and serene interior offer a captivating experience for visitors. As you wander through its hallowed halls, take a moment to reflect on the centuries of devotion, craftsmanship, and history that have shaped this magnificent basilica. Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or a spiritual seeker, San Michele in Foro promises a journey through time and beauty that you won't soon forget.