San Francesco di Paola

San Francesco di Paola, known in its local language as Basilica di San Francesco di Paola, stands as a magnificent testament to neoclassical architecture in the heart of Naples, Italy. Located in the historic Piazza del Plebiscito, this basilica is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of the city's rich cultural and historical heritage. Its grandiose structure and intricate details captivate the hearts of visitors, making it a must-see attraction for anyone exploring Naples.

The History of San Francesco di Paola

The story of San Francesco di Paola begins in the early 19th century, during the reign of the French general Joachim Murat. Murat embarked on an ambitious urban redevelopment project aimed at transforming the peripheral area, which would later become Piazza del Plebiscito. This area was notorious for its numerous convents, gardens, and a reputation as a haunt for criminals. Murat's vision was to create a grand square, initially named Gran Foro Gioacchino, which would serve as a focal point for the city.

However, Murat's plans were interrupted by his expulsion from Naples and the subsequent restoration of the Bourbon monarchy. King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies, grateful for his return to the throne, vowed to build a church dedicated to Saint Francis of Paola, who had interceded on his behalf. The design competition was won by the Swiss architect Pietro Bianchi, who incorporated elements of the original plan by Leopoldo Laperuta. The construction of the church began in 1816, and it was completed in 1846, reflecting the neoclassical style and drawing inspiration from the Pantheon in Rome.

Exploring San Francesco di Paola

As you approach San Francesco di Paola, the first thing that strikes you is its impressive façade. The church is situated at the center of a semicircular colonnade, designed by Leopoldo Laperuta, which forms the backdrop of Piazza del Plebiscito. The colonnade is supported by Doric columns and flanked by the Salerno and ex-Foresteria palaces. At the focal points of the colonnade stand equestrian statues of Charles III and Ferdinand I, the former sculpted by Antonio Canova and the latter featuring a horse by Canova and a rider by Antonio Calì.

The façade of the basilica is preceded by a short staircase made of Carrara marble. It features a pronaos with six Ionic columns, also crafted from Carrara marble by Carlo Beccalli, and two lateral pilasters supporting an architrave inscribed with a dedication to Saint Francis of Paola. Above the architrave rests a triangular pediment adorned with statues of Saint Francis of Paola by Giuseppe Del Nero, Saint Ferdinand of Castile by Heinrich Konrad Schweickle, and a central statue representing Religion.

The Interior of San Francesco di Paola

Stepping inside the basilica, you are greeted by an atrium flanked by two chapels. The left chapel is dedicated to the souls in Purgatory and houses a painting of Saint Onofrio by Luca Giordano, as well as works by Paolo De Matteis, Raffaele Postiglione, and Giuseppe Bonito. The right chapel is dedicated to the Blessed Sacrament and features an 18th-century altar of polychrome marble, crowned by a painting of Saint Francis of Paola by an unknown artist from the school of Jusepe de Ribera. The chapel also contains neoclassical paintings by Antonio Licata, Tommaso De Vivo, Fabrizio Nenci, and Antonio De Crescenzio.

Beyond the atrium lies the central body of the church, a circular space with a diameter of 34 meters, entirely paved with polychrome marble in geometric patterns. Thirty-four columns of Mondragone marble, each 11 meters tall and topped with Corinthian capitals decorated with Bourbon lilies, encircle the church. These columns, along with eight similarly sized pilasters, support a drum with tribunes used by the royalty for religious ceremonies. The drum, in turn, supports the dome, which rises to a height of 53 meters and is adorned with coffers internally and covered with Gaeta limestone externally.

The Chapels and Artworks

The left side of the basilica features three chapels adorned with paintings depicting the Death of Saint Andrew Avellino, the Immaculate Conception by Tommaso De Vivo, and the Death of Saint Joseph by Camillo Guerra. The right side chapels contain monochromatic cartoons illustrating scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Paola. The first chapel's altar showcases The Last Communion of Saint Ferdinand of Castile by Pietro Benvenuti, flanked by cartoons of Saint Francis of Paola receiving an audience with King Louis XI and crossing the Strait of Messina on his cloak. The other chapels feature works by Natale Carta and other artists, with statues of saints interspersed between the altars.

The apse houses the high altar, designed by Ferdinando Fuga in 1751 and originally intended for the Church of the Holy Apostles. The altar is made of porphyry and decorated with lapis lazuli and agate, flanked by two Egyptian breccia columns used as candlesticks. The altar is completed by a painting of Saint Francis of Paola resurrecting the young Alexander by Vincenzo Camuccini.

The Crypt and the Organs

Beneath the basilica lies an extensive crypt, covering over a thousand square meters. This underground space, recently cleared of debris during a 2018 restoration, features a circular hall with a mushroom-shaped support structure mirroring the dimensions of the church above. The crypt was likely intended to house the tombs of the Bourbon dynasty, though this plan was never realized.

The basilica once housed a grand organ built by Neapolitan organ maker Quirico Gennari in 1842, featuring 70 registers on three manuals and a pedal. Unfortunately, the organ was looted in 1944 and never restored. However, a smaller 19th-century positive organ, with seven registers on a single manual, remains in the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, retaining its original tonal characteristics.

San Francesco di Paola is not just a place of worship; it is a masterpiece of neoclassical architecture and a repository of Naples' rich history. Its grand design, stunning artworks, and historical significance make it an essential stop for anyone visiting this vibrant city. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola promises a memorable and enriching experience.