Standing majestically in the heart of Nivelles, Belgium, the Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude, known locally as Sint-Gertrudiskerk, is a stunning example of Romanesque architecture that has withstood the test of time. This ancient edifice, with its towering spires and intricate stonework, offers a captivating glimpse into the region's rich historical tapestry.
The Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude boasts a history that stretches back over a millennium. The site originally hosted five successive churches from the 7th to the 10th centuries, with the current Romanesque structure being consecrated in 1046 in the presence of Emperor Henry III of the Holy Roman Empire and Wazo, the Bishop of Liège. This consecration marked the culmination of decades of construction, which began after a devastating fire in the late 10th century.
The church's foundation is deeply intertwined with the legacy of Saint Gertrude, the abbess who founded the religious community in Nivelles. Underneath the main nave lies an archaeological treasure trove, where visitors can explore the remnants of earlier Merovingian and Carolingian churches. Among these ancient ruins, you'll find the tomb of Ermentrude, the granddaughter of Hugh Capet, a testament to the church's long-standing significance.
The Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude is a prime example of Rhenish Romanesque architecture, characterized by its bicameral design with two transepts and two opposing choirs. The church's dimensions are imposing, stretching over 100 meters from one choir to the other, with a width of 25 meters in the nave and over 44 meters at the eastern transept. The pinnacle of its tower reaches an impressive height of 50 meters, making it a prominent feature in the Nivelles skyline.
The exterior of the church is a harmonious blend of various architectural elements. The western massif, constructed in the late Romanesque period (circa 1160-1170), is a striking feature with its barlong (elongated) structure, octagonal tower, and two flanking turrets. This design gives the church its distinctive silhouette. The western apse, or counter-apse, was reconstructed during the 1970s and 1980s to restore its original Romanesque appearance, replacing a Baroque portal that had been added in the 17th century.
The southern transept, known as the Pignon de Saint-Pierre, is particularly noteworthy for its intricate sculptural decoration from the late 12th century. This façade is adorned with five levels of blind arcades, featuring a mix of smooth and zigzag-patterned columns, and a central niche housing a bas-relief of Saint Peter. The vibrant red background of the arcades contrasts beautifully with the gray stone, creating a visually striking effect.
The restoration of the Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude has been one of the most debated architectural projects in Belgium. During World War II, the church suffered significant damage from German bombings in May 1940. The subsequent restoration, led by architect Simon Brigode, aimed to unify the church's style by reconstructing the tower in a Romanesque fashion, despite this style never having been part of the original design. This decision, influenced by the principles of 19th-century architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, sparked controversy as it contradicted the Venice Charter of 1964, which advocates for respecting the valid contributions of all historical periods in restoration efforts.
The choice to rebuild the tower in this manner was ultimately decided through a public consultation with the residents of Nivelles. Three models were proposed: a reconstruction of the 17th-century square tower with its 1863 metal spire, a forebody without a tower, and an octagonal Romanesque tower. The latter option, which aligned with the stylistic unity of the church, received the majority of votes and was thus implemented.
The Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude is not only an architectural gem but also a resting place for several notable historical figures. Saint Gertrude herself was laid to rest in a funerary chapel dedicated to Saint Peter. Himiltrude, the first wife of Charlemagne, and their descendants, including their son Pepin the Hunchback, are also interred within the church's necropolis. The young princess Ermentrude, granddaughter of Hugh Capet, was buried here around the year 1000.
One of the most intriguing features of the church is the Jean de Nivelles jacquemart, an automaton in the form of a gilded brass figure standing two meters tall. This unique piece, dating back to around 1400, was relocated from the old town hall to the southern turret of the church in 1617, adding a touch of whimsy to the otherwise solemn structure.
Today, the Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude serves as a parish church, welcoming visitors from around the world to marvel at its historical and architectural splendor. Whether you're exploring the ancient crypts, admiring the intricate stone carvings, or simply soaking in the serene atmosphere, a visit to this remarkable church is a journey through centuries of history and artistry.
In conclusion, the Collegiate Church of Saint Gertrude stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Nivelles' religious and cultural heritage. Its walls have witnessed the ebb and flow of history, from the days of Merovingian kings to the present, making it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting this charming Belgian town.
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