St. Maria auf dem Berg, also known as the Frauenbergkirche, is a historic gem nestled in the picturesque town of Nordhausen, located in the heart of Thüringen, Germany. This evangelical-lutheran church, with its rich history and architectural beauty, stands proudly as the oldest church and the oldest architectural monument in the city, drawing visitors from near and far to marvel at its storied past and serene ambiance.
The origins of St. Maria auf dem Berg can be traced back to the 12th century. The first documented mention of this magnificent church dates to 1200, though its construction is believed to have commenced around the mid-12th century. The church was originally a Romanesque, three-naved, cruciform basilica. A unique feature of this church, distinguishing it from other constructions of its time, is the absence of a crypt.
In 1480, the church underwent significant modifications. The two side apses were demolished and replaced with chapel-like rooms, and the roof of the chancel bay was extended over these new spaces. The Reformation brought further changes, including the addition of galleries. Between 1909 and 1911, the northern chapel room was reduced in size to reveal a hidden wheel window in the northern wall of the chancel bay. Today, this room serves as a community space named after Friedrich Christian Lesser, while the southern room functions as the sacristy.
St. Maria auf dem Berg was once part of a Cistercian nunnery known as St. Mariae novi operis, or Neuwerk. This monastery was established in the 1230s, though exact dates vary, with some records indicating 1233 as the year the church was transferred to the nuns. On June 21, 1237, Emperor Frederick II placed the monastery under the protection of the empire.
The monastery's cloister adjoined the church to the south. However, following the Reformation in 1525, the monastery's influence waned, and by 1557/58, the convent was dissolved. The former monastery buildings were repurposed as a municipal girls' school.
Like much of Nordhausen, St. Maria auf dem Berg suffered extensive damage during British bombing raids in World War II. The church's nave and the monastery buildings were destroyed. Services were temporarily relocated to a barrack on Heringer Weg and the Cyriaci Chapel. Today, the partially rebuilt church consists of the transept and the choir.
To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the bombing, a seven-meter-long wooden cross was carried through the city and affixed to the church's facade. This cross bears the inscription: Blessed are the peacemakers – April 3/4, 1945, Destruction of Nordhausen – Erected by the city's church communities on April 2, 1995, as a sign of Christian hope.
In 1997, a wooden bell tower with a hipped roof was constructed northwest of the church, housing three bells. The smallest bell, cast in 1448, originally hung in the church's roof turret. The middle bell came from the Altendorf Church, and the largest, known as the Melanchthon Bell, weighing 777 kg, was created in 1927 for the 1000th anniversary of Nordhausen and originally installed in the Petrikirche.
In 2004, during the Thuringian State Garden Show held on the nearby Petersberg, the Frauenberg grounds were redesigned. The bricked-up arch that once connected the transept to the lost nave was reopened and fitted with a window and a glass folding door. A large cross was mounted on this structure. To visualize the former nave, a modern open steel construction with adjustable sails was erected.
A prominent information board in front of the church highlights its role in the peaceful revolution of 1989/90, adding another layer of historical significance to this venerable site.
Inside the church, visitors can find a range of historical artifacts. A notable piece is a carved Gothic crucifix, though only the head of the corpus has survived the ravages of time. Additionally, a single gravestone remains, likely depicting an abbess of the monastery. Other memorials, such as those for Provost Dietrich von Küllstedt and his sister Margarethe (dated 1370), and a bronze plaque for Lorenz Gassemann (who was stabbed by Berlt Koch on May 13, 1577), are no longer present.
The church's musical history is equally rich. The first organ, a positive organ, was mentioned in 1657. Over the centuries, the organ underwent numerous repairs, rebuilds, and enhancements by various organ builders. The current organ, a one-manual instrument, was installed in 1974 as Opus 2008 by VEB Sauer from Frankfurt (Oder). It is located on the northern gallery and continues to fill the church with its melodious sounds.
St. Maria auf dem Berg is not just a church; it is a testament to resilience and rebirth. Its walls echo with centuries of history, faith, and community spirit, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich cultural tapestry of Nordhausen and Thüringen.
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