Tvrđa

In the heart of Osijek, Croatia, lies a historical gem that beautifully intertwines the past and present - the Tvrđa. This 18th-century Baroque fortress town, perched strategically by the Drava River, offers an immersive journey through time, showcasing a rich tapestry of cultural, architectural, and historical wonders.

The Historical Evolution of Tvrđa

The story of Tvrđa begins in the aftermath of the liberation of Osijek from Ottoman rule in 1687. Recognizing the strategic importance of this location, the Austrian military authorities embarked on a grand project to construct a new fortress. On August 1, 1712, under the meticulous supervision of General Johann Stephan Baron von Beckers, the transformation commenced. The design, inspired by the lowland Dutch military fortifications, was further refined by Maximilian Eugen Gosseau d'Henef during construction.

By 1722, the fortress was largely completed, although minor constructions continued into the 1760s. The 19th century saw only a few additional buildings within the fortress, all constructed from baked brick and stone to meet military needs. Tvrđa was a melting pot of cultures in the 18th and 19th centuries, home to locals and immigrants from Styria, Carniola, Bavaria, Moravia, Italy, France, Hungary, and Bulgaria. Despite the diverse population, Latin and German were the official languages, though Croatian was also widely spoken.

Trg Sv. Trojstva: The Heart of Tvrđa

One of the oldest squares in Osijek, Trg Sv. Trojstva, came into existence in the early 18th century alongside the fortress. Originally known as Wine Square, it was a bustling hub where wine from Baranja was sold to soldiers and innkeepers every Saturday and Wednesday. In 1729, the widow of General Petraša, the commander of Osijek's fortress, erected a votive statue of the Holy Trinity to protect the city from the plague. This statue, featuring saints such as St. Sebastian, St. Roch, St. Rosalia, and St. Catherine, still stands today.

The square has witnessed several name changes over the centuries, reflecting its evolving role and significance. From Parade Square and Main Square to Franz Joseph Square in honor of the Austrian Emperor, and finally to its current name, Trg Sv. Trojstva, in 1992.

Architectural Marvels of Trg Sv. Trojstva

The oldest public building on Trg Sv. Trojstva is the City Magistrate and Chamber Directorate, constructed in 1702 in Baroque style. Adjacent to it was the house of Ferdinand Daniel Vesentin, the first city judge, which was later leased to the city and merged with the Magistrate's building. In 1715, the Main Guard building was erected in the center of the square, later replaced by a new structure in 1729, featuring a commanding presence with a Moorish-Venetian style dome.

On the northern side of the square, the Military Command Building was constructed between 1724 and 1726, blending Renaissance and Baroque elements. This building served as the headquarters for the Slavonian General Command and the Slavonian Provincial Government at various times. It also housed Osijek's oldest German-language theater, established in 1750, and the Resource Society, which organized public balls and events until 1918.

Trg Jurja Križanića: A Triangular Delight

Connected to Trg Sv. Trojstva by the former Duck Street (now Josip Bösendorfer Street), Trg Jurja Križanića boasts a triangular layout dominated by the parish church of St. Michael. Constructed between 1725 and 1748 on the site of the demolished Kasim Pasha Mosque, this single-nave church features two towers with distinctive onion-shaped domes. The adjoining Jesuit Monastery, which once housed a classical gymnasium, was converted into a barracks after the Jesuit order was disbanded in 1773.

Strolling Through the Streets of Tvrđa

The inner streets of Tvrđa are a testament to meticulous urban planning, with names reflecting their historical functions, such as Barracks Street, Garrison Street, and Craft Street. Two main thoroughfares, Cardo (Franjevačka Street) and Decumanus (Franje Kuhača Street), connect the fortress's key structures and storage facilities.

A visit to Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog, once the fortress promenade, reveals the Proviant-Kasserne (Supply Barracks) and the military flour warehouse, built in the mid-18th century. The street names have evolved over time, with Poštanska Street becoming Markovićeva Street after World War II, named after the poet and professor Franjo Marković.

Architectural Gems and Cultural Heritage

Among the notable buildings in Tvrđa is the house at Kuhačeva Street No. 11, once the residence of Baron Alexander Johann von Kallanecka, director of the Slavonian Chamber Inspection. This house, bequeathed to the Franciscans, was exchanged with the military for an old general's house near the monastery. The Pejačević House at No. 13, built in the early 18th century, later became the property of butcher Mirko Kolčić, who replaced the noble crest with his initials.

At Kuhačeva Street No. 15, the house of pharmacist Franz Ludwig Poccorny in the late 17th century is believed to have housed Osijek's oldest civilian pharmacy. A plaque commemorates the birth of violinist Franjo Krežma in this house. The corner house at Markovićeva Street No. 2, once owned by merchant Mihael Pejačević, features a baroque detail of St. Margaret.

On the northeastern side of Trg Sv. Trojstva, the Solar Square housed the salt warehouse and the solar office from the early 18th century. In 1879, the city council requested Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer to donate this land for the construction of a classical high school, which was completed in 1883. Designed by architect Hermann Bollé in a classicist style, it now serves as the Economic School.

Bishop Strossmayer also facilitated the establishment of the Bishop's Seminary by purchasing two houses on the western side of Trg Sv. Trojstva in 1898. The seminary, now the Franjo Kuhač Music School, began operating the following year.

Conclusion

Tvrđa in Osijek is not just a fortress; it is a living museum of history, culture, and architecture. Each street, building, and square tells a story of a bygone era, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore the rich heritage of this remarkable Baroque town. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, Tvrđa offers a captivating journey through the centuries, making it an unmissable destination in Croatia.