Quattro Canti

Quattro Canti, also known as Piazza Villena, Ottagono del Sole, or Teatro del Sole, is a remarkable octagonal square situated at the intersection of Palermo’s two main thoroughfares: Via Maqueda and the ancient Cassaro, now known as Via Vittorio Emanuele. This historic crossroad, located approximately midway along these roads, serves as a quintessential example of Baroque urban planning and architecture, making it an essential stop for any visitor to Palermo.

The Urban Design of Quattro Canti

The official name of the square, Piazza Villena, honors the Viceroy Juan Fernández Pacheco y Toledo, the 5th Marquis of Villena, who governed from 1606 to 1610. However, the square is more commonly referred to as Quattro Canti, which translates to Four Corners, or by its more poetic names, Ottagono del Sole and Teatro del Sole. This latter name, Theater of the Sun, derives from the fact that at any given time of day, at least one of the four facades is bathed in sunlight, creating a dynamic play of light and shadow that enhances the square's architectural splendor.

The four decorative facades that define Quattro Canti were constructed between 1609 and 1620. Each facade is adorned with a combination of architectural orders and figurative elements that ascend from the earthly to the divine. The lower level features fountains representing the four rivers of ancient Palermo: Oreto, Kemonia, Pannaria, and Papireto. Above these, in the Doric order, are allegorical representations of the four seasons: Aeolus (Winter), Venus (Spring), Ceres (Summer), and Bacchus (Autumn). The next level, in the Ionic order, houses statues of four Spanish kings: Charles V, Philip II, Philip III, and Philip IV. The uppermost level, in the Corinthian order, is dedicated to the four patron saints of Palermo—Saint Agatha, Saint Ninfa, Saint Olivia, and Saint Christina—who were venerated before the advent of Saint Rosalia and Saint Benedict of San Fratello.

A Journey Through History

The creation of Quattro Canti was initiated by Viceroy Juan Fernández Pacheco y Toledo in 1608, who commissioned the Florentine architect Giulio Lasso to design the square. The project drew inspiration from the Quattro Fontane in Rome, designed during the papacy of Sixtus V, but Lasso's vision for Palermo was grander and more elaborate. By 1609, the structural work on the corners dedicated to Saint Ninfa and Saint Agatha was completed, bearing the viceroy's coat of arms. The corner dedicated to Saint Christina, adjacent to the Church of San Giuseppe dei Teatini, was completed in 1612 under the patronage of Viceroy Ossuna.

After Lasso's death in 1615, the project was overseen by Mariano Smiriglio, the Senate's engineer, who had previously supervised the construction under Lasso. Under Smiriglio's direction, the original decorative program underwent significant changes. The uppermost level, initially intended to house statues of monarchs, was instead dedicated to the four virgin saints of Palermo. The statues of the kings, originally planned to be cast in bronze by Scipione Li Volsi, were ultimately sculpted in marble between 1661 and 1663 by Carlo D'Aprile. The statues of the four seasons, initially intended to be bronze, were sculpted in marble by Gregorio Tedeschi (Spring and Summer) and Nunzio La Mattina (Autumn and Winter).

Architectural Marvel

The architecture of Quattro Canti is a masterful blend of simplicity and grandeur. The square forms a perfect octagon, with four facades interspersed by the streets that converge at this central point. Each facade is a harmonious composition of architectural orders, sculptural elements, and decorative details, creating a visual feast for the eyes.

The lower level of each facade features a fountain, each representing one of Palermo's ancient rivers. These fountains are adorned with intricate sculptures and bas-reliefs, adding to the square's overall aesthetic appeal. The middle levels of the facades are characterized by their use of the Doric and Ionic orders, with statues of the four seasons and Spanish kings, respectively. The uppermost level, in the Corinthian order, is dominated by the statues of the four patron saints, each depicted with their respective attributes and symbols.

A Living Theater

Quattro Canti is not just a historical monument; it is a living theater where the daily life of Palermo unfolds. The square is a bustling hub of activity, with locals and tourists alike passing through its sunlit corners. The interplay of light and shadow on the facades creates a constantly changing tableau, making each visit a unique experience.

The square has also served as a backdrop for various cultural events and film productions, including the 2008 movie Palermo Shooting. Its timeless beauty and architectural grandeur make it a popular location for photographers, artists, and filmmakers.

In conclusion, Quattro Canti is a testament to Palermo's rich history, architectural heritage, and vibrant cultural life. Its harmonious blend of art, architecture, and urban planning makes it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the city. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, Quattro Canti offers a captivating glimpse into the soul of Palermo.