San Michele Maggiore

San Michele Maggiore, also known locally as Basilica di San Michele Maggiore, is a stunning masterpiece of Lombard Romanesque architecture located in the heart of Pavia, Italy. This majestic basilica, with its rich history and intricate architectural details, stands as a testament to the religious and cultural significance it has held for centuries. A visit to San Michele Maggiore is like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into the medieval world and the artistic prowess of the era.

The History of San Michele Maggiore

The origins of San Michele Maggiore date back to the 7th century during the Lombard period. The original church was dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel and was constructed under the reign of Grimoaldo, the Lombard king. This early structure served as a palatine church, closely linked to the royal palace located nearby. It played a central role in the religious and political life of the city, hosting significant ceremonies and events.

In 1004, a devastating fire destroyed the original church. The reconstruction of the basilica began towards the end of the 11th century, with the crypt, choir, and transepts being completed by this time. The construction was interrupted by a major earthquake in 1117 but was eventually completed by 1130. The current structure, therefore, dates primarily from this period, with the exception of the bell tower, which remains from the earlier 10th-century church.

San Michele Maggiore has been the site of numerous royal coronations, including that of Frederick I Barbarossa in 1155. This illustrious history adds to the church’s grandeur and significance, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and architecture aficionados alike.

Architectural Marvels of San Michele Maggiore

San Michele Maggiore is celebrated as a prototype of medieval Romanesque architecture in Lombardy. Unlike other churches in Pavia, such as San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, which predominantly use brick, San Michele Maggiore is constructed extensively with yellowish sandstone. This choice of material gives the basilica its distinctive appearance and contributes to its architectural uniqueness.

The basilica features a Latin cross plan with a remarkably developed transept that almost forms a second church within the main structure. This transept has its own facade on the northern side, complete with a faux apse on the opposite side and a barrel vault that contrasts with the cross vaults of the rest of the church. This design is reminiscent of Ottonian and Salian architecture, particularly the Cathedral of Speyer in Germany, suggesting the influence of Germanic craftsmen in its construction.

The basilica’s dimensions are impressive, with a length of 55 meters and a width of 38 meters at the transept. At the crossing of the nave and the transept rises a strikingly asymmetrical octagonal dome, supported by Lombard-style pendentives. Externally, the dome is covered by a tiburium adorned with five arches on the longer sides and three on the shorter diagonal sides.

The interior of the basilica is divided into three naves, each with its own portal on the facade. The central nave is twice as wide as the lateral naves and is covered by ribbed cross vaults, a design implemented between 1488 and 1491 by Jacopo da Candia and his son Agostino de Candia. Originally, the nave had two large cross vaults that likely supported the roof directly. The current configuration with four rectangular bays provides better structural stability.

The transept is crowned by a substantial dome, reaching an internal height of approximately 30 meters. The side aisles are topped by galleries that not only serve a formal purpose but also provide structural support to counteract the lateral forces of the central nave’s vaults. The four rectangular chapels that open in pairs along the lateral naves are later additions, further enriching the basilica’s architectural complexity.

The Facade of San Michele Maggiore

The facade of San Michele Maggiore is a remarkable example of Romanesque design. It features a gabled profile, higher than the roof of the central nave, adorned with a loggia of twenty-one arches along the eaves. The facade is divided vertically by clustered pilasters, creating a rhythmic and harmonious appearance.

The facade is richly decorated with sandstone sculptures depicting both sacred and profane themes. These sculptures, although weathered by time and the elements, still convey a sense of beauty and wonder. Among the notable carvings are representations of Saint Michael the Archangel and the dragon, the Annunciation, and the Madonna and Child, as well as various scenes from biblical and everyday life.

The facade also features five small biforas, three single lancet windows, and a cross flanked by two oculi. The horizontal bands of bas-reliefs depict intricate scenes of human, animal, and mythical creatures intertwined, adding to the facade’s visual and symbolic richness. The deeply recessed portals are particularly ornate, with some depicting biblical scenes and others illustrating more secular subjects like deer hunting, a blacksmith’s workshop, and a fisherman.

In conclusion, San Michele Maggiore is not just a basilica; it is a journey through time, a celebration of medieval artistry, and a symbol of Pavia’s historical and cultural heritage. Its architectural grandeur and historical significance make it an indispensable stop for anyone visiting this charming Italian city. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, San Michele Maggiore promises an unforgettable experience.