Place du Coderc

Nestled in the heart of Périgueux, the Place du Coderc is a vibrant hub of history and culture, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of life in this charming French town. This bustling square, with its deep historical roots and lively atmosphere, invites visitors to step back in time while enjoying the vibrant life of a modern market.

The Historical Tapestry of Place du Coderc

The origins of Place du Coderc trace back to the Middle Ages, when it was smaller than the expansive square we see today. It quickly became the center of civic life, hosting significant buildings such as the Maison de la Commune. This site was not just an administrative hub but also a place of community gatherings and even served as a prison during the Ancien Régime.

In the 14th century, the square was the scene of grand banquets, part of the local carnival tradition. These feasts, provided by the consulate, often featured delicacies like salted pork and beef, drawing the city's religious communities together. However, the festivities were not without their challenges, as they sometimes led to chaos and overcrowding.

A Market Through the Ages

By 1400, a market hall was erected on the square, marking Place du Coderc as a key site for trade and commerce. Over the centuries, the market evolved, reflecting the changes in the city’s economy and society. The hall was expanded, destroyed, and rebuilt, each iteration adding layers to the square's rich history.

During the French Revolution, the square took on a darker role as the site of public executions. The guillotine stood here from 1800 to 1840, a stark reminder of the turbulent times. Yet, the resilience of Place du Coderc shone through as it transformed once more into a bustling marketplace, a tradition that continues to this day.

Architectural Wonders

Place du Coderc is not only a place of commerce but also a showcase of architectural beauty. Its irregular polygonal shape is bordered by charming buildings that tell stories of bygone eras. The most prominent feature is the Coderc Hall, constructed in 1832-1833, which dominates the western side of the square.

To the north, the Hôtel de Lestrade boasts an interior Renaissance staircase, a testament to the grandeur of the past. The square is also home to the Maison Lapeyre, with its distinctive polygonal turret, a relic from the 17th century that has witnessed centuries of change.

Modern-Day Vibrancy

Today, Place du Coderc remains a lively center of activity. The market, held every Wednesday and Saturday, is a feast for the senses, offering everything from fresh produce to local specialties like foie gras. The hall itself is open daily, providing a space for vendors to showcase their goods and for visitors to experience the local culture firsthand.

The square also plays a role in the cultural life of Périgueux. It has been immortalized in literature, notably in Eugène Le Roy’s novel Jacquou le Croquant, and continues to inspire local artists and writers. A plaque honors Jean Boussuges, the poet of Coderc, whose works capture the essence of the square.

A Place of Stories and Community

Place du Coderc is more than just a market square; it is a living museum of Périgueux’s history. From its medieval origins to its role in the French Revolution, and its vibrant present, the square embodies the spirit of the town. Its cobblestones have witnessed centuries of stories, from the mundane to the extraordinary.

Visitors to Place du Coderc can enjoy not only the market's offerings but also the sense of community that permeates the square. It is a place where history and modern life intertwine, offering a unique glimpse into the soul of Périgueux. Whether you are exploring the architectural wonders, savoring local delicacies, or simply soaking in the atmosphere, Place du Coderc promises an unforgettable experience.