San Sisto, Piacenza

San Sisto, known locally as Chiesa di San Sisto, is a captivating Catholic church located in the heart of Piacenza, Italy. This remarkable structure is steeped in history, architectural splendor, and religious significance, making it a must-visit for any traveler exploring the region.

The History of San Sisto

The origins of San Sisto date back to 874 AD, when it was founded alongside a Benedictine nunnery by Empress Engelberga of Alsace, wife of Emperor Louis II. The empress, leveraging her influence, secured various land possessions and water rights for the nascent monastery. The complex initially included a church dedicated to the Risen Christ and the Twelve Apostles, as well as a hospice. Engelberga herself took a personal interest in the monastery, becoming its abbess in 882 and acquiring several relics, including those of Saint Barbara of Nicomedia, which fostered a special local devotion.

Engelberga passed away in 889 and was buried within the church. Interestingly, this monastery was the first to be established within the city walls of Piacenza, rather than outside near the city gates. It was also placed under the jurisdiction of the Diocese of Milan to ensure maximum autonomy from the Piacenzan ecclesiastical hierarchy.

Over the years, both the church and the monastery flourished, gaining significant economic and political power. This prominence led to various disputes, culminating in 1112 when Matilda of Canossa intervened, resulting in the monastery being granted to Benedictine monks. The following years saw frequent alternations between male and female Benedictine leadership until 1129, when it was permanently entrusted to the male order of the community of Saint Robert of La Chaise-Dieu.

Despite retaining many privileges, the monks initially lost a significant portion of their territories, which were gradually recovered under Abbot Gandolfo’s leadership post-1185. However, after his tenure, San Sisto experienced a period of decline and fell under the control of the Counts of Lavagna. In 1285, Pope Alexander IV mandated the monks to vacate the monastery, replacing them with the Sisters of Saint Clare, who later became the Sisters of San Sisto and Saint Francis.

The monks eventually regained control, agreeing to transform the monastery into a commendatory abbey led by a perpetual or commendatory abbot. This arrangement persisted until 1425 when the observant Benedictines of the Congregation of Santa Giustina of Padua took over. They initiated extensive reconstruction work, culminating in the late 15th century with the rebuilding of the church, overseen by Piacenzan architect Alessio Tramello. It was during this period that Raphael’s Sistine Madonna was housed in the church. The building was consecrated in 1514, although construction continued, with the façade completed by the late 16th century.

San Sisto held special significance for Duchess Margaret of Austria, wife of the Duke of Parma and Piacenza, Ottavio Farnese. She was interred in the church after her death. In the mid-18th century, a flood damaged many of the monastery’s lands, necessitating the sale of the Sistine Madonna to Augustus III of Saxony to fund repairs. The Benedictine monks maintained the church until 1809, when Napoleon expelled them and confiscated their wealth. While the convent was repurposed as a barracks, the church remained in use, becoming a parish seat in 1813 under Pope Pius VII.

Exploring San Sisto

Visitors enter the complex through a 1622 portal on Via San Sisto, which opens into a triportico cloister built in 1576. The portico, featuring arches supported by slender marble columns with Ionic capitals, creates a serene prelude to the grand façade of the church.

The façade, completed in 1591, is divided into two orders by horizontal cornices. The upper order features fluted pilasters topped with stone masks, while the lower order is adorned with semi-columns on high bases, supporting an entablature. The central portal, flanked by smaller entrances, is framed by white marble columns and a curved pediment with a heraldic shield inscribed with PAX. Above the main door, a niche houses a statue of Saint Sixtus, with statues of Saint Benedict and Saint Germanus in the upper niches.

The Interior of San Sisto

Inside, San Sisto boasts a Latin cross layout with three naves separated by granite columns. The central barrel vault and double dome transcepts replace the traditional lantern tower. The intersection of the transcepts features a dome with a gallery adorned with terracotta sculptures of Saints Augustine, Ambrose, Jerome, and Gregory the Great.

The dome of the entrance transcept showcases frescoes of Sibyls by Bernardino Zacchetti, completed in 1517. The left nave includes a 17th-century altarpiece by Giuseppe Nuvolone, frescoes by Antonio Campi, and works by Alessandro Mazzola and Giovanni Battista Tagliasacchi. The right nave features a Madonna with Child and Saints by Sebastiano Novelli. The second transcept houses the mausoleum of Duchess Margaret of Austria, designed by Simone Moschino, and a Martyrdom of Saint Barbara by Jacopo Palma the Younger.

Adjacent to the presbytery are chapels with 18th-century canvases by Angelo Borroni and Giovanni Battista Pittoni. The presbytery itself, expanded in the late 16th century, contains a 1545 Facchetti organ, the oldest in Piacenza, and an altar with intricate detailing.

San Sisto is not just a church but a testament to centuries of religious, political, and artistic evolution. Its rich history and architectural beauty offer a compelling journey through time for any visitor.