In the heart of Reims, France, stands a monumental relic of the Roman era that has withstood the test of time: the Porte de Mars. This ancient structure, dating back to the 3rd century, is a testament to the grandeur and architectural prowess of the Roman Empire. Named after Mars, the Roman god of war, due to its proximity to a temple dedicated to him, the Porte de Mars is the largest surviving Roman arch in the world, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
The Porte de Mars is the last remaining of the four monumental arches that once marked the cardinal entrances to Durocortorum, the Roman name for Reims. The others were the Porte Cérès or Porte de Trèves to the east, the Porte Bazée to the south, and the Porte de Vénus or Porte de Soissons to the west. Built in the early 3rd century, the Porte de Mars was initially a symbol of the city's grandeur during the High Empire. In the 4th century, it was incorporated into the city's defensive walls, becoming one of the four main gates of Reims.
During the Middle Ages, the arch was integrated into the Château des Archevêques (Castle of the Archbishops) around 1228. The arch remained part of the city's fortifications until the 14th century when a new gate was constructed 100 meters to the east. The original Porte de Mars was rediscovered in 1677, and significant restoration efforts began in the 19th century, culminating in a full excavation and restoration in 1854.
The Porte de Mars is an impressive structure, measuring 33 meters in length, 13 meters in height, and 6.40 meters in thickness. It features three arches adorned with eight columns on the facades and two additional columns on each side. The spaces between the columns were decorated with niches topped by triangular pediments and medallions with high-relief heads, though many of these decorations have been significantly eroded over time.
One of the most fascinating aspects of the Porte de Mars is the intrados of the vaults, which, despite being heavily worn, offer a rare depiction of a Gallic reaper as part of a calendar of agricultural work. This series of medallions illustrates various farming activities, including plowing, harvesting, and milling. Under the western arch, a square medallion depicts the legendary she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, watched over by the shepherd Faustulus and Acca Larentia. This scene is thought to symbolize the deep connection between Reims and Rome, with local legends suggesting that Reims was founded by Remus or his companions after fleeing Rome.
The preservation of the Porte de Mars owes much to its incorporation into the fortifications of the Castle of the Archbishops in the 13th century. During the dismantling of the city walls in 1840, the monument's future was uncertain. Thanks to the efforts of Prosper Mérimée, funds were mobilized to save the arch, and in 1854, Narcisse Brunette reconstructed the western pilaster. Despite some clumsy restoration attempts in the 19th and 20th centuries, significant scientific restoration work was carried out in 1983-1984 by the Monuments Historiques.
In recent years, the Porte de Mars has undergone further restoration. Since July 2015, a new campaign has been underway to restore the monument. The first phase, completed in 2018, involved replacing the 19th-century concrete cover with a lead cover and adding a rainwater drainage system. The second phase, which began in January 2023, focuses on restoring the facades and decorations of the arch.
Today, the Porte de Mars is beautifully integrated into the urban landscape of Reims. Significant modifications to the city's traffic plan in 2011, including the removal of the Place de la République roundabout, have enhanced pedestrian access and improved the monument's visibility. The renovation of the Hautes-Promenades between 2018 and 2020 further enhanced the area, creating a spacious plaza in front of the arch and highlighting its grandeur.
As you stand before the Porte de Mars, you can almost hear the echoes of ancient Roman chariots passing through its arches. The deep grooves in the central archway, worn by centuries of traffic, are a tangible link to the past. The intricate carvings, though weathered, still tell stories of a time when Reims was a bustling Roman city.
In conclusion, the Porte de Mars is not just a historical monument; it is a symbol of the enduring legacy of the Roman Empire and the rich history of Reims. Its majestic arches and intricate carvings offer a glimpse into a bygone era, making it a captivating destination for anyone visiting this beautiful city. Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, the Porte de Mars promises a journey through time that you won't soon forget.
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