Nestled in the heart of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the Iglesia de la Concepción, also known by its original name Iglesia Matriz de la Concepción, stands as a beacon of historical and architectural splendor. This Roman Catholic church, with its rich history and distinctive design, offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the past while serving as a vibrant part of the local community today.
The origins of the Iglesia de la Concepción date back to the late 15th century when a chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross was constructed on the site where the church's central nave now stands. By 1539, the chapel had evolved into a parish church, and in 1558, it underwent its first significant expansion. To protect the church from occasional flooding, a protective wall was constructed between the church and the Barranco de Santos in 1605, which was later expanded and renewed in 1729 and 1838.
In 1638, the church's name was changed from Iglesia de Santa Cruz to Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Concepción. The mid-17th century saw further expansions, including the addition of the left side nave around 1640. A devastating fire in 1652 led to a major reconstruction, during which the altar area was extended eastward, and the main nave was enlarged to its current dimensions. The right side nave was also added during this period, and in 1664, the church received its first organ.
The economic prosperity of Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the latter half of the 17th century brought increased donations from wealthy merchants, funding the construction of several chapels on the church's north and south sides. Before 1776, the church featured a bell wall at its southwestern corner, which was replaced by a new tower on the north side in 1788. Designed by architect Antonio Samper, the tower, with its distinctive roof, has become one of the city's landmarks.
In the 1990s, the church underwent a comprehensive restoration led by architect José Miguel Márquez Zárate, closing from 1994 to 1996. The building was declared a protected monument in 1983, with the protection extended to its surroundings in December 2008.
The exterior of the Iglesia de la Concepción is a fascinating blend of architectural styles and forms. The main entrance on the west side features an arched hall topped by a covered balcony, typical of Canarian architecture. Another balcony graces the south side of the sacristy. The tower on the north side, a prominent feature of the church, stands as a testament to the city's rich architectural heritage.
Inside, the church is divided into five naves, each with its own distinct character and charm. The central nave and the two inner side naves boast continuous wooden ceilings, while the altar areas and chapels feature intricately carved or painted ceilings in the Mudéjar style. The central nave is separated from the inner side naves by six round arches supported by Ionic columns, creating a sense of grandeur and openness.
The main altar, crafted between 1726 and 1731 and later gilded, is a masterpiece of religious art. The central figure of the church's patron saint was sculpted by Fernando Estévez from La Orotava, with paintings and sculptures by other notable artists adorning the altar. The silver tabernacle, originally created in 1745, was refurbished and expanded by silversmith Rafael Fernández Trujillo in the late 19th century. The ceiling above the altar features a painting titled Contemplación mistica de la Santísima Trinidad by an unknown 18th-century Canarian artist.
A notable feature of the main nave is the pulpit, consecrated on December 8, 1736. Made of veined marble and jasper from Genoa, it is a striking example of Baroque craftsmanship. The choir loft, added in the 18th century as the congregation grew, houses an organ built in 1862 by the English firm Bevington and Sons.
The church's side naves and chapels are equally impressive. The right inner side nave, completed in 1674, features the Altar Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, donated by a local brotherhood. The Altar Ecce Homo, relocated to the west wall during the construction of the choir loft, showcases a seated Christ figure, Saint Peter, and Mary Magdalene.
The Capilla de Carta, or Chapel of San Matías, located behind the right inner side nave, was completed in 1740. This chapel, with its baroque wooden carvings and imported statues from Genoa, is a hidden gem within the church.
The right outer side nave houses four chapels, including the Altar of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, which features a replica of a painting by Cristóbal Hernández de Quintana and statues by Antonio María Maragliano. The chapel also holds a relic of Saint Clement, gifted by the Patriarch of Antioch in 1703.
The left inner side nave is home to the Calvarienaltar, with a crucifixion group, and the Altar de los Ánimas, featuring a painting of purgatory by Luis José from La Palma. The left outer side nave includes the Chapel of San Francisco Javier, with its own sacristy, and the Chapel of Santiago, which contains the grave of Antonio Gutiérrez, the defender of Santa Cruz during the 1797 British attack led by Admiral Nelson.
The Iglesia de la Concepción is more than just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the faith, artistry, and resilience of the people of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Its walls tell stories of devotion, community, and survival, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the rich cultural heritage of the Canary Islands.
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