In the heart of Santiago de Compostela, a city renowned for its spiritual and historical significance, stands the majestic Monasterio de San Martín Pinario. This architectural marvel, second in size only to the grandiose San Lorenzo de El Escorial, is a testament to the rich monastic traditions of Spain and the enduring legacy of the Benedictine order.
The origins of the Monasterio de San Martín Pinario trace back to a modest chapel dedicated to Santa Maria, known as the Corticela. This chapel, built in the late ninth century, became a significant religious site when King Alfonso III of Asturias and Bishop Sisnando began constructing the new cathedral around 899. The Benedictine monks, who initially resided in the chapel, moved to the newly built monastery, marking the beginning of San Martín Pinario's storied history.
By the end of the fifteenth century, the monastery had grown immensely in wealth and influence, becoming the most powerful monastic institution in Galicia. This prosperity led to an extensive reconstruction effort starting in the sixteenth century. The current church, a cornerstone of the monastery, began construction soon after Juan de Sanclemente Torquemada was appointed Archbishop of Santiago in 1587. The project was initially overseen by the renowned monastic architect Mateo López and later continued by Benito González de Araujo.
The façade of the church is a masterpiece of architectural design, featuring a grand altarpiece structure divided into three bodies and three streets, separated by fluted columns. This intricate design is dedicated to the exaltation of the Virgin Mary and the Benedictine order. The fronton finish is adorned with a relief of Saint Martin on horseback, symbolizing the patron of the convent. The façade's current appearance is the result of various interventions, including the addition of two towers and side windows by Peña del Toro in the 17th century, showcasing early Baroque elements that would later influence other significant structures in Santiago de Compostela.
Step inside the Monasterio de San Martín Pinario, and you'll be greeted by a stunning church completed in 1652. The church features a single nave covered with a barrel vault, six side chapels, and a crossing illuminated by a magnificent dome. The Baroque choir stalls, crafted by Mateo de Prado, along with the three largest altarpieces and the Relief Chapel, are the works of Fernando de Casas Novoa, creating one of the most exquisite Baroque ensembles in Spain.
Today, the monastery houses a museum of religious art, accessible through the church door. Visitors can explore the temple, sacristy, former printing room, pharmacy, Chapel of the Relics, Renaissance choir, and various collections of gold, ivory, and liturgical vestments. This museum is considered one of the finest in the region, offering a glimpse into the rich religious heritage of Galicia.
The Monasterio de San Martín Pinario boasts two magnificent cloisters. The largest, known as the Cloister of the Offices, was begun by Bartolomé Fernández Lechuga in 1626 and completed by Fernando de Casas y Novoa in 1743. This rectangular cloister features six sections on the major sides and four on the smaller sides, with two linked floors supported by matched columns.
The Cloister of the Portería, or Processions, is the largest and closest to the church. Construction began around 1633, with contributions from Peña del Toro and Miguel de Romay, who also designed the bell tower. This cloister features two floors united by double columns of giant Tuscan order, with semicircular arches on the first floor and balconies flanked by double Doric columns on the second. The entire structure is topped by a cornice with pinnacles, creating a visually striking architectural element.
One of the most captivating features of the monastery is the grand staircase designed by Friar Manuel de los Mártires in 1771. This staircase, executed by Friar Plácido Caamiña, descends gracefully with a mix of curves and countercurves, creating an intriguing perspective.
The main chapel, with its rectangular plan and barrel-vaulted ceiling, is a marvel of Baroque design. It houses a walnut stall and an impressive altarpiece, alongside the side altarpieces in the transept, forming one of the most exquisite Baroque ensembles in Spain. The main altarpiece serves a dual purpose, facing both the nave and the choir of the monastic community, and is richly decorated with gold leaf, salomonic columns, scrolls, pearls, acanthus leaves, and intricate vegetal motifs.
The choir stalls, crafted by Mateo de Prado between 1639 and 1647, reflect the influence of Gregorio Fernández and the Roman engravings of 1579. The iconography celebrates the Virgin Mary as the destroyer of sin, highlighting the Benedictine order's devotion to the Immaculate Conception. The crest, designed by Diego de Romay in 1673, adds to the grandeur of the stalls.
The lateral altarpieces, located at the ends of the transept, are dedicated to Saint Benedict and the Virgen Inglesa. These altarpieces, adorned with salomonic columns, fruit strings, corbels, ribbons, and broken semicircular pediments, are believed to have been brought to Compostela by English Catholics exiled during the reign of Henry VIII.
The Monasterio de San Martín Pinario is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the rich religious and architectural heritage of Galicia. Its walls echo the stories of centuries past, inviting visitors to explore and immerse themselves in the history and beauty of this magnificent monastery.
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