Église Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly, nestled in the heart of Saumur in the Maine-et-Loire department of France, is a captivating blend of history, architecture, and spiritual significance. This Romanesque gem, known locally as église Notre-Dame de Nantilly, stands as the oldest church in Saumur, with its origins tracing back to the 12th century. As you step into this sacred space, you are immediately enveloped by the echoes of centuries past, where each stone and archway tells a story of resilience, faith, and artistry.
The history of Église Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly is as rich and layered as the stones that form its structure. The site is mentioned as early as the 9th century in a diploma by Charles the Bald, and its significance only grew from there. The parish of Santa Maria de Lentimiaco, as it was known, played a pivotal role in the history of the Abbey of Saint-Florent of Saumur. The church's earliest construction dates back to the aftermath of the 1067 fire that ravaged Saumur, making it a testament to the town's resilience and determination to rebuild.
Throughout the centuries, the church has seen numerous modifications and restorations. In the 13th century, Pope Urban IV attempted to establish two canons in the church, a move that was later reversed by his successor, Clement IV. The 15th century saw significant changes under the reign of Louis XI, who added a parish church on the south side of the nave, transforming the original structure and incorporating a baptismal chapel. The church also served various purposes during tumultuous times, including housing prisoners during the French Revolution.
The architectural splendor of Église Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly is a feast for the eyes. The Romanesque nave, the oldest part of the church, features six bays and a grand transept that opens into two apsidal chapels and a deep choir. The nave is adorned with ten prominent pillars, each crowned with intricately carved capitals that depict various themes, from stylized palmettes to mythical creatures and historical scenes. These sculptures are the work of a single artist and bear a striking resemblance to those found in Cunault.
The transept and choir, constructed later, showcase the evolution of architectural styles. The transept's crossing vault, with its ribbed dome and central oculus, is a prime example of 12th-century Anjou architecture. The choir and apse, dating from the latter half of the 12th century, feature barrel vaults and semi-dome apses illuminated by five round-arched windows.
One of the most intriguing additions to the church is the southern aisle, built under the direction of Louis XI to accommodate the parishioners while the nave was reserved for the canons. This vast space is adorned with five remarkable keystones, each depicting significant symbols such as Saint Michael slaying a devil and the arms of France and Savoy. A small oratory, traditionally believed to be reserved for Louis XI, now houses the baptismal fonts.
Descending 38 steps from the southern aisle, visitors can explore the underground chapel. This mysterious space, with its ribbed vaults reaching 8 meters high, was likely used as a mortuary chapel before being converted into an ossuary between the 17th and 19th centuries. The exact original purpose of this chapel remains a topic of speculation and intrigue.
Église Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly is also renowned for its stunning stained glass windows, many of which date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The windows in the apse and transept chapels, crafted by the Lobin workshop of Tours in 1862, are particularly noteworthy. These vibrant windows cast a kaleidoscope of colors across the church's interior, adding to its serene and contemplative atmosphere.
At the heart of the church, to the right of the choir, stands the statue of Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly. This revered statue is a focal point for worship and reflection, embodying the church's spiritual heritage and its enduring significance to the local community.
The church's organ, built by the Breton organ builder Pierre Le Hellocq between 1685 and 1690, is another highlight. Despite suffering significant damage during the French Revolution, the organ has been meticulously restored over the years, most recently by Nicolas Toussaint of the Manufacture Bretonne d’Orgues. Today, it boasts 2,166 pipes and 33 stops spread across three manual keyboards and a pedalboard, filling the church with its majestic sound during services and concerts.
Église Notre-Dame-de-Nantilly is more than just a historic monument; it is a living testament to the faith, artistry, and resilience of the people of Saumur. Its walls have witnessed centuries of history, from medieval sieges to revolutionary upheavals, and its architecture reflects the evolution of styles and techniques over the ages. A visit to this remarkable church is a journey through time, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Saumur's past and the enduring spirit of its community.
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