Located in the charming town of Sens in the Yonne department of France, the Musées de Sens (originally named Musée de Sens) is a treasure trove of historical artifacts and artistic masterpieces. Established in the mid-19th century, this museum now boasts an extensive collection that spans multiple eras, housing the collections of the Société archéologique de Sens, various donations including those from the Marrey family, and the treasure of the Saint-Étienne Cathedral of Sens. Since 1985, the museum has been housed in the former palace of the archbishops of Sens, adjacent to the cathedral and the synodal palace.
The Musées de Sens began its journey around 1844 within the old town hall of Sens, at the Hôtel Vezou. Initially, it showcased a series of artworks acquired from revolutionary seizures and a donation by Alfred Lorne, a notable figure from the town. Concurrently, the Société archéologique de Sens was founded to preserve and study the Gallo-Roman blocks discovered in Sens' walls. As the collection grew, the Hôtel Vezou needed expansion, leading to the construction of a new wing inaugurated in 1891. This wing featured a large Gallo-Roman lapidary hall on the ground floor and a gallery for paintings and a room dedicated to archaeology and natural history on the first floor.
In 1903, with the relocation of the town hall, the museum expanded further, allowing it to accommodate new objects. A significant milestone was reached in 1950 with a donation from Augusta Hure, which led to the opening of a prehistory section. The museum's final move in 1985 to the former archbishops' palace, a historic monument, allowed it to consolidate collections from other museums in Sens, including the cathedral's treasure, the synodal palace, and the Société archéologique de Sens collections.
The Musées de Sens offers a diverse array of collections that cater to various interests. The museum is divided into several sections, each dedicated to different historical periods and themes. Visitors can explore the grand Gallo-Roman lapidary hall, a room dedicated to archaeology and natural history, and collections enriched by recent archaeological discoveries from sites like the Danubian house in Charmoy and the monumental funerary structures in Passy (Yonne).
Among the museum's highlights is the Villethierry treasure, consisting of 847 Bronze Age jewelry pieces, including pins, fibulae, pendants, bracelets, rings, and a pair of tweezers. This treasure was discovered in 1969 by a schoolteacher who asked his students to bring old objects from their grandparents' time. One student brought unique pins that led to the discovery of the entire treasure.
Another significant collection is the Saint-Denis-lès-Sens treasure, which originally included 242 Gallic gold coins (although it was stolen in June 2012). Despite this loss, the museum still houses a remarkable array of artifacts that provide a glimpse into the region's ancient past.
The Musées de Sens also features the Lucien and Fernande Marrey collection, which includes furniture designed by the renowned ironworker Raymond Subes (1891-1970) and ceramics by Jean Mayodon (1893-1967). The museum's painting collection spans from the 15th to the 19th centuries, featuring works by artists such as Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Abel Grimmer, Guido Reni, Louis Cretey, Delorme, and Georges-Antoine Rochegrosse. Additionally, the museum showcases contemporary works by regional artists, offering a blend of historical and modern artistic expressions.
One of the most prestigious parts of the Musées de Sens is the cathedral treasure. This collection is housed in a room adjacent to the cathedral, offering views of its interior through a large window. The treasure includes ancient fabrics, reliquary goldsmithing, ivory caskets, precious vases, and books. Among the notable pieces is the Sainte Châsse, an ivory and enamel casket from the Byzantine Empire, likely crafted in the 12th century. Another significant artifact is the reliquary cross of the True Cross, made of silver, vermeil, stones, pearls, and glass beads, created by the goldsmith Poussielgue-Rusand in 1873. The Sainte Coupe, a double silver-gilt cup with a foot and lid in doucine, is another remarkable piece, believed to have been made in England in the late 12th century and listed in the treasure inventory in 1446.
The Musées de Sens organizes its prehistoric collections chronologically across several rooms. The first room is dedicated to the Paleolithic era, showcasing flint tools found at the Marsangy site. The Neolithic era is represented in the second room, followed by the Bronze and Iron Ages in the largest room, which houses the Villethierry treasure.
The Gallo-Roman collections are displayed in the museum's underground rooms, featuring around forty complete steles, several fragments, and epitaphs. These steles depict various individuals from different social statuses, including citizens, non-citizens, workers, and nobles. One notable piece is the stela of two elderly spouses, the largest in the room, indicating their importance. Another intriguing piece is the stela of a blacksmith, depicting a craftsman forging metal, with his tools and a dog at his feet.
The Musées de Sens is more than just a museum; it's a journey through time, offering a comprehensive look at the history, art, and culture of Sens and its surrounding regions. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply curious, the Musées de Sens promises an enriching and captivating experience that brings the past to life in vivid detail.
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