In the heart of Södertälje, Stockholm County, lies a remarkable testament to Viking Age craftsmanship and Christian faith—the Gamla Turingevägen Inscriptions, also known locally as the Holmfastristningen. These inscriptions, designated as Sö 311, Sö 312, and Sö 313 in the Rundata catalog, are a captivating blend of art, history, and religious devotion, etched meticulously into the rock face along the ancient road of Holmfastvägen. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply a curious traveler, these inscriptions provide a fascinating glimpse into the past.
The rightmost carving, Sö 313, is a visual feast, primarily ornamental and likely representing a wolf. This lean, swift creature with its tongue hanging out appears to be rushing out of the picture, evoking a sense of movement and urgency. Accompanying the wolf are rune snakes and a braided ring cross, a symbol of the family's Christian faith. The cross, intricately woven into the design, signifies the blend of pagan and Christian beliefs during the Viking Age. The style of this carving, along with the others, suggests it was created around 1050–1080 AD by the rune master Östen, also known as Eysteinn in the runic text. Östen's signature craftsmanship can also be seen in other inscriptions across the region, including Su 344 at Kiholm and Södertälje Canal.
The Gamla Turingevägen Inscriptions are not just artistic marvels; they also tell a story of community and infrastructure. Holmfast's road, which these inscriptions commemorate, was a crucial route from Tälje to Näsby, located about three kilometers west of the carvings. This road had to be reinforced with bridges and stone fillings, a testament to the engineering skills of the time. Interestingly, the Catholic Church played a significant role in sponsoring such projects, much like the indulgences offered in return for the church's intercession for the souls of the departed. This practice underscores the intertwining of faith and daily life during this period.
Sö 311, the leftmost carving, features runic text carved onto a serpent band, a design that is both intricate and symbolic. Although somewhat damaged, this inscription stands 1.2 meters tall and is classified in the Urnes style (Pr3). This style is characterized by slim, stylized animals interwoven into tight patterns, with animal heads typically shown in profile, featuring slender almond-shaped eyes and upwardly curled appendages on the noses and necks. The serpent band, a common motif in Viking art, symbolizes eternity and protection, adding a layer of meaning to the inscription.
At the center of the trio is Sö 312, a 1.5-meter-tall inscription that combines runic text with a Christian cross. This carving is also done in the Urnes style (Pr4), known for its elegant and intricate designs. The text follows a unique rule where two consecutive identical letters are represented by a single rune, even if they occur at the end of one word and the start of another. This can be seen in the words byki| |i. Notably, this inscription is signed by the rune master Östen, making it the only surviving inscription known to bear his signature. His name is simply added at the end of the text without a verb such as carved or painted, a rare but not unheard-of practice in runic inscriptions.
The Gamla Turingevägen Inscriptions are more than just ancient carvings; they are windows into a time when art, faith, and daily life were deeply intertwined. These inscriptions were likely status symbols meant to be seen by many passersby, indicating that Holmfast's road was part of a larger road system. There are numerous indications that it was a precursor to Göta landsväg, the oldest and most well-known road connection from Stockholm to the south towards Götaland.
Rune master Östen's work on these inscriptions is a testament to his skill and artistry. His ability to blend intricate designs with meaningful text has left an indelible mark on the landscape of Södertälje. The fact that his signature appears on Sö 312 adds a personal touch to these historical artifacts, connecting us to the individual behind the chisel.
In conclusion, the Gamla Turingevägen Inscriptions are a must-see for anyone visiting Södertälje. They offer a unique blend of art, history, and faith, all carved into the rock face by a master craftsman. As you stand before these ancient carvings, you'll be transported back to a time when the lines between the earthly and the divine were beautifully blurred, and the road beneath your feet was a lifeline for communities bound by faith and tradition.
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