Church of San Juan de Rabanera

The Church of San Juan de Rabanera, known locally as the Iglesia de San Juan de Rabanera de Soria, stands as a testament to the rich historical and architectural heritage of Soria, Spain. This remarkable Romanesque church, dating back to the late 12th century, beckons visitors with its unique charm and storied past.

The Historical Tapestry of the Church of San Juan de Rabanera

The Church of San Juan de Rabanera is one of the thirty-five parishes listed in the census of Alfonso X the Wise in 1270. Over the centuries, it absorbed the ancient parishes of San Esteban and San Sebastián, and today, it belongs to the Church of Nuestra Señora del Espino. The original Romanesque structure features a Latin cross layout, a nave with three sections, a semicircular apse preceded by a rectangular presbytery, and a transept marked in the plan.

In the 15th century, two square chapels were added alongside the transept. The Baroque period brought significant transformations, including the addition of the Chapel of Juan de Palafox or the School of Christ on the northern end of the transept, and the completion of the tower with a Baroque spire in the 16th century. These changes, however, masked much of the church’s original Romanesque character.

Fortunately, restorations in 1908 and 1958 sought to reclaim the church's Romanesque purity, although at the cost of losing some valuable artistic elements. The 1908 restoration, initiated by Teodoro Ramírez Rojas, uncovered the Romanesque decoration by removing the whitewash from the interior and added the San Nicolás portal to the western façade. The 1958 restoration, despite opposition from the Count of Saltillo, eliminated the sacristies and the Palafox Chapel to restore the church's original design.

Architectural Splendor

The Church of San Juan de Rabanera showcases a Latin cross plan with a single nave and a transept of equal height. Although partially restored and altered by various additions of chapels and sacristies over time, the exterior still displays the magnificent original apse, the southern façade of the transept, and a sealed doorway in the southern wall. The church is covered by different types of vaults: a ribbed vault in the apse, a pointed barrel vault in the presbytery, and similar vaults in the transept arms. The crossing is capped with a dome supported by squinches.

The Unique Apse

The apse of the Church of San Juan de Rabanera is a striking feature with its unique external appearance. It is adorned with three pilasters acting as buttresses, which are smooth and rectangular in the lower section and fluted in the upper section. Unlike typical designs, the central position does not feature a window but one of the pilasters, serving as the axis of symmetry for the other pilasters and two semicircular windows with ornate architraves. Four blind pseudo-windows, two on each side, further enhance the decorative arcading of this singular apse.

The San Nicolás Portal

The church boasts a magnificent portal, which was originally part of the Church of San Nicolás in Soria. In 1908, due to the irreversible ruin of the latter, the portal was transferred to the Church of San Juan de Rabanera. The portal consists of four plain archivolts, except for the innermost one, which rests on capitals adorned with scenes from the New Testament on the left and the life of Saint Nicholas on the right. The tympanum, a commendable piece of work, depicts a group of seven figures, with the central figure being the seated saint. This portal likely dates back to the early 13th century.

The Interior of the Church

The interior of the Church of San Juan de Rabanera follows the described plan with a single nave and a transept. Besides the main apse, there are two hidden apsidioles embedded in the eastern walls of the transept arms, only visible through narrow slit windows. All spaces are covered with vaults of varying types, reflecting the architectural evolution over centuries. The original nave vault is unknown, replaced by a lunette vault in the 18th century.

The Main Chapel

The main apse once housed a Plateresque altarpiece, which was relocated to the southern arm of the transept during one of the restorations. This altarpiece, crafted by Francisco de Ágreda (1546-1556) and painted by Juan de Baltanás (1561-1569), is a significant piece of art, according to research by the Marqués de Saltillo.

The Chapel of Juan de Palafox

Juan de Palafox y Mendoza founded the School of Christ in the Church of San Juan de Rabanera, and the foundational book signed by him and subsequent meeting records are preserved. The chapel, opened in the northern end of the Romanesque transept, was accessed through a semicircular arch and featured a square plan with four supporting arches and a hemispherical dome with a lantern. A Baroque altarpiece, housing the 1655 crucifix of the Holy Christ of Forgiveness by Manuel Pereira, adorned the main altar. This chapel was removed during the 1958 restoration, but the Baroque altarpiece remains in the northern arm of the transept, preserving the memory of this unique monument.

The Church of San Juan de Rabanera is not just an architectural gem but a living chronicle of Soria's history. Its Romanesque roots, Baroque transformations, and meticulous restorations make it a must-visit for anyone interested in the rich tapestry of Spain's cultural heritage.