St. Peter (Straubing)

Nestled in the heart of Lower Bavaria, the Catholic Filial Church of St. Peter in Straubing is a hidden gem that seamlessly blends history, architecture, and spirituality. Originally the parish church of the settlement known as Altstadt, this Romanesque pillar basilica, dating back to the late 12th century, stands proudly on an elevated site overlooking the southern bank of the Danube River. Surrounded by an ancient cemetery with a rich collection of late Gothic chapels and gravestones from the 14th to the 19th centuries, St. Peter’s Church is a testament to the passage of time and the endurance of faith.

The History of St. Peter’s Church

The history of St. Peter’s Church is as layered as the centuries it has witnessed. The story begins in the last quarter of the 3rd century AD when a Roman fort was established on the church hill. Archaeological excavations in 1974 revealed two stone predecessors of the current church, indicating a continuous sacred presence on this site. The first stone church, dating from the 9th century, stood until around the year 1000. Following the donation of Straubing to the Augsburg Cathedral chapter in 1029, the Carolingian hall church was extended westwards in the second quarter of the 11th century, and a fore-tower was added.

By the end of the 12th century, the church underwent significant reconstruction, resulting in a larger building with three apses in the east and two towers in the west. The 1695-96 Baroque transformation saw the vaulting of the main and side aisles and the enlargement of windows, with the entire interior adorned with stucco decoration. In 1772, the south tower was heightened. The 19th century brought a Neo-Romanesque redesign under Regensburg Cathedral Vicar Georg Dengler, which saw the removal of Baroque elements. The church’s current exterior appearance was finalized in 1887 with the elevation of the north tower and new tower finishes. A major renovation between 1976 and 1978 aimed to restore the Romanesque spatial impression, removing the vaults and reinstating wooden flat ceilings at their original height, along with lowering the floor and eliminating the Neo-Romanesque furnishings.

Architectural Marvels

The architectural design of St. Peter’s Church is a study in Romanesque elegance. The church’s layout forms a closed rectangle, including its three apses and two west towers. A cornice with a tooth frieze runs along the longitudinal sides and apses under the eaves, while the east gable and apses are further adorned with a blind arch frieze. The towers are articulated with corner pilasters and blind panels featuring tooth and arch friezes. Twin windows punctuate the lower floors, with triple arcades opening up the belfry.

The West Portal

The West Portal is a striking feature, with a twice-stepped round arch framed by attached columns whose capitals are decorated with palmette ornaments in shallow kerb cuts. The archivolts also feature palmette friezes, while the lintel showcases lily blossoms. The tympanum relief depicts a knight armed with a sword and a large shield battling a dragon that has devoured another man, a dramatic scene that captures the imagination. The wooden door wings date from 1861, adding a touch of historical craftsmanship.

The South Portal

The South Portal is equally impressive, flanked by columns with twisted shafts, whose decoration continues on the middle archivolt. The inner archivolt, lintel, and capitals are adorned with friezes of stylized leaves and spiral ornaments, while vine leaves and grapes are depicted on the imposts above the capitals. The tympanum relief illustrates the combat between a lion and a mythical creature, possibly a griffin or basilisk, symbolizing the eternal struggle between good and evil.

The Interior

Inside, the church’s three-aisled nave is divided into six bays and covered with a flat wooden ceiling. Wide round arch arcades, supported by square pillars with impost capitals, open the main nave to the side aisles. The 19th-century decoration of the imposts with heart- and circle-framed leaf ornaments adds a touch of romanticism. The nave transitions seamlessly into the chancel square, which, like the two eastern side aisle bays, is covered with a cross-ribbed vault. The chancel and side aisles conclude with slightly recessed apses, each topped with semi-domes.

The western end of the nave features a gallery housing the organ, with the vestibule below and the side rooms under the towers covered by cross-ribbed vaults. The vaulting of the western bays reinforces the lower floors of the towers, showcasing the structural ingenuity of the Romanesque period.

Artistic Treasures

The church’s artistic treasures are a feast for the eyes. The Romanesque triumphal cross hanging under the chancel arch is a crucifix of the four-nail type from around 1200, depicting Christ with a knee-length loincloth. A wooden Pietà, dating to around 1340, adds a poignant touch. The early 15th-century carved figures of St. Catherine, holding her attribute, the wheel, and St. Barbara, with a tower in hand, enrich the church’s iconography. The tabernacle stele in the apse houses a polychrome stone relief of the Crucifixion group with Mary and John, dating from around 1500.

Gravestones and Epitaphs

The church’s side aisle walls are lined with numerous gravestones, each telling a story of the past. A plain late Roman stone sarcophagus, discovered during the 1974 excavations, stands in the southern side aisle. The northern tower chapel houses the epitaph for Veit Kargl from 1511, crafted from limestone and featuring a polychrome high relief of the Lamentation of Christ.

The Surrounding Chapels

The cemetery surrounding St. Peter’s Church includes three standalone chapels. The Chapel of Our Lady, built around 1425, features an ossuary from the 15th century. The Agnes Bernauer Chapel, constructed in 1436, serves as the tomb of Agnes Bernauer, the beloved of Duke Albrecht III of Bavaria-Munich, who was executed in 1435. The Dance of Death Chapel, erected in 1486, boasts an extensive cycle of Dance of Death paintings. The frescoes, created by Rococo artist Felix Hölzl in 1763, depict the macabre yet fascinating theme of death and the afterlife.

In conclusion, St. Peter’s Church in Straubing is not just a place of worship but a repository of history, art, and architecture. Its walls echo with the stories of centuries past, inviting visitors to step back in time and experience the rich heritage of Lower Bavaria. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a spiritual seeker, a visit to St. Peter’s Church promises to be an unforgettable journey through the annals of time.