Nestled on the serene banks of the Aare River, the Scherzligen Reformed Church (Reformierte Kirche Scherzligen) in Thun, Switzerland, is a hidden gem that seamlessly blends historical significance with architectural beauty. This quaint yet majestic church has stood the test of time, serving as a spiritual haven and a testament to the rich cultural tapestry of the region.
The origins of Scherzligen Reformed Church trace back to the Carolingian era, making it one of the oldest ecclesiastical sites in the canton of Bern. Historical records first mention the church in 760/761 when Heddon, the Bishop of Strasbourg, donated it to the Ettenheim convent in Baden-Württemberg. This ancient place of worship has evolved through the centuries, with each era leaving its indelible mark on its structure and significance.
In the late antiquity period, the site was home to a mausoleum with a double tomb, established in the 5th and 6th centuries. This was later replaced by the first church of Scherzligen, constructed on the same spot. The church's tower, dating back to the second third of the 9th century, is the oldest in the canton of Bern. Its Romanesque nave and apse, believed to have been reconstructed in the 10th-12th centuries, are a testament to the architectural prowess of that era.
Throughout the Middle Ages, the church underwent several transformations. Notably, in 1272, it came under the ownership of the Interlaken convent. The church's walls were adorned with murals, including a depiction of the death of Mary around 1400 and other frescoes from the 1440s. The wooden structures of the nave and choir, dating from 1464-1469, and the small organ installed in 1514, further enriched its historical tapestry.
The Reformation brought significant changes to Scherzligen Reformed Church. Between 1528 and 1534, efforts were made to make the pilgrimage site less attractive. Altars and the organ were removed, and the tabernacle was walled up. Despite these changes, the church continued to serve as a place of worship, with the existing beam benches installed during this period.
Visitors to Scherzligen Reformed Church are greeted by a picturesque setting, with the church perfectly oriented to capture the sunrise on June 21st, the longest day of the year. The church's location, adjacent to the Schadau Castle estate and offering a panoramic view of Thun, adds to its charm.
Stepping inside, one is transported back in time. The church's chancel, established around 1275 during the Crusades, and its oldest murals from the same period, offer a glimpse into its medieval past. The polygonal choir, which replaced the Romanesque apse around 1378-1380, is adorned with paintings and features acoustic vases in its vault. The golden cross on the choir's raised roof, donated by Gerhard of Bern in 1389, is a striking feature.
The church's interior is a treasure trove of historical artifacts. The semi-spherical Romanesque baptismal font in the choir, the longest beam benches in the canton of Bern, and the oldest wooden ceiling, dating back to 1380, are particularly noteworthy. The frescoes in the nave, discovered during restoration work in 1922-1923, and the double tomb with a mausoleum unearthed in 1989, add to the church's historical allure.
The church's painted decorations are a highlight for art enthusiasts. In the choir, near the south window, a depiction of the Virgin and Child on a crescent moon, surrounded by rays and above Saint John the Evangelist at his desk, is a captivating sight. The axial window features a scene of the Annunciation, with Mary at her lectern, God the Father with the Child Jesus, and an angel Gabriel opposite a small donor figure.
The triumphal arch, separating the nave and choir, is adorned with fragments illustrating the life of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, painted in dominant yellow and red hues. The north wall of the nave features a grand illustration of the Passion of Christ, attributed to the painter Pierre of Bern, who died in 1469. The north wall also boasts three superimposed painted bands, with the middle one depicting the life of Mary and the lower one illustrating legendary scenes from the life of Jesus.
The Scherzligen Reformed Church is a marvel of medieval architecture. Its oldest bell tower, initially an independent tower from the 9th century, and the oldest tracery in molasse in the canton of Bern, are standout features. The church's porch, added in 1707, and the gallery, along with the renovations from 1757-1758, further enhance its architectural beauty. The most recent major restoration, carried out in 2002-2003 by architect Kurt Siegrist, renewed the furniture in the nave and choir, ensuring the church's historical integrity while making it more accessible to visitors.
Today, Scherzligen Reformed Church continues to serve as a place of worship, hosting Sunday services and welcoming pilgrims. Its picturesque setting, rich history, and architectural beauty make it a popular venue for weddings and a must-visit destination for those exploring the cultural heritage of Thun. Whether you're a history buff, an art enthusiast, or simply seeking a tranquil retreat, Scherzligen Reformed Church offers a unique and enriching experience that will leave you captivated by its timeless charm.
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