The Iglesia de Santa María de la Mesa in Utrera, a town nestled in the province of Seville, Spain, is a magnificent testament to the region’s rich history and architectural splendor. This grand temple, with its origins in the medieval period, underwent significant transformations in 1401 and the 16th century, resulting in the stunning structure that stands today. As a designated Bien de Interés Cultural since 1979, this church is not only a place of worship but also a cherished historical monument.
The Iglesia de Santa María de la Mesa is a sprawling edifice constructed using an eclectic mix of brick, ashlar, and masonry. Its five naves, with the central nave towering above the others, are divided into six sections and feature a transept. The central nave’s height and the intricate ribbed vaults that cover the aisles are supported by a series of rectangular and octagonal pillars, creating a sense of both grandeur and stability. The transept itself is crowned with a dome resting on pendentives, while the main chapel and the arms of the transept are adorned with barrel vaults.
At the foot of the church lies the monumental Puerta del Perdón, a tower-facade erected around 1550. This awe-inspiring entrance is attributed to the Basque artist Martín de Gainza, who was also involved in the construction of the Seville Cathedral. The seamless integration of the facade and bell tower is a hallmark of medieval tower-facades, but Gainza’s personal touch is evident in the Renaissance language he employed, resulting in a spectacular and unique structure.
The facade follows a triumphal arch scheme of giant order, with two large balustraded columns on pedestals supporting an Ionic entablature adorned with pearl decorations, a frieze, and a cornice. This is all topped with a straight pediment decorated with candelabra. The central arch, a semicircular masterpiece, is flanked by classical heads in the spandrels and features a rich and orderly decoration of rosettes and cherub heads within a grid of coffers. Above the lintel of the entrance, in the tympanum, is a relief of the Assumption of the Virgin, accompanied by inscriptions and Conceptionist emblems. This grand facade is complemented by the bronze door fittings, which are as chronologically significant as the rest of the structure, making it one of the most beautiful and lesser-known pieces of 16th-century architecture in Lower Andalusia.
Rising above the facade is the tower, a single block composed of four staggered sections. The first two sections, crafted by the renowned Cordoban architect Hernán Ruiz the Younger in the mid-16th century, are characterized by their sobriety, punctuated only by two oculi and topped with Mannerist pyramids and lily-shaped jars in stone and wrought iron, inspired by those of the Giralda in Seville, also designed by Ruiz. The Lisbon earthquake of 1755 caused significant damage to the tower, necessitating a substantial renovation. This included the addition of two new Baroque sections, designed by local architect Miguel Ruiz, whose work was altered during the lengthy construction process, which continued until 1777.
Inside, the church boasts a wealth of artistic treasures. The main altarpiece, commissioned in 1662 by Martín Moreno and completed by Francisco Ballesteros, features reliefs of the Virgin and the martyrdom of local saints Esteban and Artemidoro, among others. On one side, the praying figure of Don Diego Ponce de León, founder and patron of one of the chapels, stands as a 16th-century masterpiece. The choir, located at the foot of the central nave, with over fifty seats arranged in two tiers, was crafted by Felipe del Castillo in 1774 and is decorated with medallions of saints and articulated by estípites.
In the late 18th or early 19th century, two new neoclassical portals, known as the Puerta del Sol and the Puerta de la Sombra, were added to the lateral naves. Designed by architect José Echamorro, the portal on the Gospel nave is well-proportioned and features a semicircular arch flanked by paired columns with smooth shafts.
The Iglesia de Santa María de la Mesa is more than just an architectural wonder; it is a living monument that continues to serve the community of Utrera. Its blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements, coupled with its rich history and artistic heritage, make it a must-visit for anyone traveling through Andalusia. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or a casual tourist, this church offers a glimpse into the past and a testament to the enduring beauty of Spanish ecclesiastical architecture.
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