In the heart of Verona's historic center, nestled beside the quaint church of Santa Maria Antica and just a stone’s throw from Piazza dei Signori, lies one of Italy’s most captivating Gothic treasures – the Scaliger Tombs, or as they are locally known, Arche scaligere. This monumental funerary complex is a testament to the grandeur and influence of the Scaliger family, who ruled Verona during the Middle Ages. With their intricate design and historical significance, the Scaliger Tombs stand as a remarkable example of Gothic art and architecture, drawing visitors from around the world.
The story of the Scaliger Tombs begins in the 12th century, when the cemetery of Santa Maria Antica became the chosen burial ground for the illustrious Scaliger family. The first significant tomb constructed was that of Mastino I della Scala, who passed away in 1277. Although only the sarcophagus remains today, its archaic Ravenna-style design set the tone for the tombs that followed.
By the early 14th century, additional sarcophagi were added for other prominent members of the family, including Alberto I, Bartolomeo I, and Alboino. These tombs were aligned along the church’s exterior wall and were initially intended to be part of a larger series of family sepulchers. However, it was the death of Cangrande I della Scala in 1329 that truly transformed the cemetery into a Gothic masterpiece.
Cangrande I, the most renowned lord of Verona, was honored with a grandiose tomb that stands above the lateral entrance of Santa Maria Antica. The monument, which evolved over time, features a striking pyramidal roof topped with an equestrian statue of Cangrande. The sarcophagus itself is adorned with elaborate reliefs depicting scenes from his life and conquests, including battles and the cities he conquered.
The tomb’s original design included elements typical of Romanesque architecture, such as barrel vaults and rounded arches. However, these were later replaced with ribbed cross vaults and pointed arches, giving the tomb its distinctive Gothic appearance. The sarcophagus, now located within the cemetery, showcases a blend of Romanesque and Byzantine influences, with intricate figurative reliefs that depict various aspects of Cangrande’s legacy.
Following Cangrande’s death, his successor, Mastino II, expanded Verona’s territories and commissioned the renovation of the cemetery to glorify the Scaliger family. The tomb of Mastino II, designed by the master of the Scaliger Tombs, reflects this ambition with its bold and innovative design. The monument features a quadrangular base adorned with high-relief scenes from sacred history, including the temptation of Adam and Eve and the mocking of Noah.
Atop the sarcophagus, Mastino is depicted lying peacefully, while a lower relief shows him kneeling before the Virgin Mary. The tomb is crowned with an equestrian statue of Mastino, clad in armor, symbolizing his martial prowess and leadership. This statue, like that of Cangrande, is a testament to the artistic skill and creativity of the period.
The final and most elaborate of the Scaliger Tombs is that of Cansignorio, who ruled until his death in 1375. Despite his tumultuous reign, marked by intrigue and violence, Cansignorio sought to leave a lasting legacy through his tomb. Designed by the renowned sculptor Bonino da Campione, the monument is an architectural marvel with its hexagonal base and intricate Gothic details.
The tomb is surrounded by a protective enclosure adorned with statues of warrior saints, including St. Martin and St. George. The sarcophagus, elevated on a red marble platform, is encircled by pairs of putti (cherubs), and an inscription credits Bonino da Campione with its creation. The tomb’s decorative complexity and grandeur reflect the significant investment Cansignorio made to secure his place in history.
Over the centuries, the Scaliger Tombs have faced challenges related to their preservation. By the late 16th century, the monuments began to show signs of deterioration. Efforts to restore and maintain the tombs have been ongoing, with significant interventions occurring in the 18th and 19th centuries. These restorations have ensured that the tombs remain a testament to the artistic and cultural heritage of Verona.
Today, the Scaliger Tombs stand as a symbol of the city’s medieval past and the enduring legacy of the Scaliger family. Visitors to Verona are drawn to the tombs not only for their historical significance but also for their breathtaking beauty and intricate craftsmanship. As you wander through this Gothic masterpiece, you can’t help but be transported back in time, imagining the grandeur and power of the Scaliger lords who once ruled this enchanting city.
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