Torre Matilde

In the heart of Viareggio, a charming coastal town in Tuscany, stands the Torre Matilde, an ancient sentinel of history and intrigue. This venerable tower, steeped in centuries of maritime and military significance, offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the past. The Torre Matilde, often mistakenly attributed to the 16th century and to Matilda of Tuscany, is a testament to the strategic importance of Viareggio as a coastal stronghold.

The Birth of Torre Matilde

The origins of Torre Matilde date back to the early 16th century, a time when Viareggio's coastline was under constant threat from Barbary pirates. The original castle of Viareggio, constructed in 1172, had become ineffective due to the advancing shoreline, leaving the coast vulnerable to attacks. In response, the government of Lucca decided to erect a new tower closer to the sea. On June 5, 1534, the construction of Torre Matilde began, utilizing stone from the partial demolition of the old castle.

To fund this ambitious project, extraordinary taxes were levied on goods arriving in Viareggio for six years. The tower was completed in 1542, just in time to witness a historic event. In September 1541, the arrival of Emperor Charles V was celebrated with blank cannon shots from the tower as he disembarked in Viareggio to meet a papal emissary in Lucca.

The Tower's Evolution

Torre Matilde's role evolved over the years. Initially, it served as a watchtower and defensive structure, housing a garrison of about fifteen men. In 1544, a protective wall was constructed around the village of Viareggio, further fortifying the area. By the mid-16th century, a residence for the commissary of the beaches was built adjacent to the tower, connected by a loggia. This official was responsible for overseeing the village and the movement of goods.

In the early 17th century, the tower was raised by an additional floor and topped with a small bell tower housing two bells. After 1703, the public clock, previously located on the commissary's house, was moved to the top of the tower. Initially maintained by a local resident, the clock's upkeep was later entrusted to the soldiers of the guard in 1748.

Strikes of Fate and Resilience

On April 15, 1780, a lightning strike hit Torre Matilde, tragically killing a guard but sparing the nearby powder magazine. In gratitude for escaping a potential disaster, the community instituted the Voto del comune celebration, which was briefly discontinued in 1808 but revived in 1821.

As the coastline continued to advance, the mouth of the Selice River was regulated with the construction of the Burlamacca Canal in 1788. A new fort was built nearby, yet Torre Matilde retained its role as a surveillance post, monitoring both potential maritime threats and fires. The bells also served to convene the community parliament.

A Multifaceted Landmark

In the early 19th century, Torre Matilde found a new purpose as a prison, primarily for transient prisoners. In 1810, a telegraph turret was installed on the tower. During the Napoleonic Wars, the tower's garrison was unable to resist an English landing in Viareggio in 1813, leading to the condemnation of the commanding officer, Ippolito Zibibbi, for failing to defend the tower.

By 1819, Viareggio had been granted city status, and prisoners, including convicts housed in the tower, were employed in constructing the quay. Between 1823 and 1847, the tower was used as a convict bath, while the prison was relocated to Camaiore. In 1850, it resumed its role as a prison, with a guardian's house built nearby in 1854. The tower contained six cells, each capable of holding up to six inmates, until the end of World War II.

Restoration and Modern Usage

After the prison was closed in 1945, Torre Matilde fell into disuse and remained abandoned until 1969. Restoration efforts began under the supervision of the Pisa Superintendency of Environmental, Architectural, Artistic, and Historical Heritage. These efforts continued until 1982, revealing the tower's original structure, which had been altered by various adaptations over the years.

Today, Torre Matilde serves as a cultural venue, hosting artistic exhibitions and cultural events. Its sturdy walls, which once guarded the coast and housed prisoners, now echo with the sounds of creativity and celebration. Visitors to Viareggio can explore this historic monument, marvel at its enduring architecture, and imagine the myriad stories it has witnessed over the centuries.

In conclusion, Torre Matilde stands as a symbol of Viareggio's rich history and resilience. From its origins as a coastal defense tower to its role as a prison and now a cultural hub, this remarkable structure embodies the spirit of adaptation and endurance. A visit to Torre Matilde is a journey through time, offering a unique perspective on the dynamic history of Viareggio and its enduring connection to the sea.