The Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria, locally known as Catedral de Santa María, stands as a magnificent testament to the rich history and architectural prowess of Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of the Basque Country in Spain. This Gothic-style cathedral, often referred to as the Old Cathedral (Catedral Vieja), is not just a place of worship but a symbol of the city's historical evolution and cultural heritage.
Perched on the northern corner of the flat hill where the original city of Vitoria was founded in 1181 by King Sancho VI of Navarre, the Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria has witnessed centuries of history. The area, initially known as Nova Victoria, evolved from the ancient village of Gasteiz. The cathedral's journey began as the Collegiate Church of Santa María, which was elevated to cathedral status in 1862 following the creation of the Diocese of Vitoria. This promotion was provisional, pending the construction of a larger cathedral, leading to the eventual distinction between the Old Cathedral and the New Cathedral dedicated to the Immaculate Conception of Mary, built in the 20th century in a neo-Gothic style.
The Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria is a complex structure, characterized by its Gothic architecture and an array of structural challenges that have persisted since its inception. The building's significance lies not just in its style but in its intricate construction and the historical events it has weathered. The cathedral's restoration journey began in earnest in the late 20th century, with a comprehensive restoration plan initiated in 1994, leading to its closure to the public. The restoration plan, known for its innovative approach, allowed visitors to witness the restoration process under the theme Open for Works, earning international acclaim, including the Europa Nostra Award in 2002 for exceptional restoration studies.
The cathedral's layout is a blend of various structures built over different periods. The main church, oriented east-west with a slight northern inclination at the eastern end, is the oldest part of the complex. The Chapel of Santiago, now serving as the parish church of Santa María, is located on the south side and has its own independent entrance from the Plaza de Santa María. The south side also features a portico with an apse that shelters the main entrance, and above it rises the bell tower, capped with a spire that reaches approximately sixty meters in height.
The cathedral's Latin cross floor plan includes three naves, with the central nave being taller than the side aisles, all covered with ribbed vaults. The transept and the eastern end are particularly spacious, featuring four rectangular chapels and an ambulatory that opens into three polygonal chapels. The interior is adorned with a delicate triforium and a 14th-century portico housing remarkable sculptures.
The portico of Santa María is a masterpiece of 14th-century peninsular plastic art. Initially added in the 15th century and modified in the 16th century, the portico features a tripartite facade. The left portal's tympanum depicts scenes from the life of Saint Giles, though recent iconographic studies question this interpretation. The central portal narrates the life of the Virgin Mary, culminating in her coronation by her son. The right portal portrays the Last Judgment, with Saint Michael weighing souls, directing them either to the door of Glory or to the infernal procession.
The jambs of the portals are adorned with figures from the Old Testament, such as Isaiah, Ezekiel, Solomon, and the Queen of Sheba, as well as saints like Margaret, Magdalene, and Martha. The portico was originally polychromed, and a recent video projection system, The Portico of Light, showcases the evolution of its colors from the 16th to the 20th century.
The ongoing restoration of the Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria is managed by the Fundación Catedral de Santa María, established in 1999. The restoration efforts are supported by contributions from various institutions, including the Basque Government and the Spanish Government, as well as private patronage. This sustainable and comprehensive approach to restoration has not only preserved the cathedral's structural integrity but also enhanced its cultural and functional potential.
The cathedral's restoration has also fostered a vibrant cultural program in Vitoria-Gasteiz, featuring music recitals, educational units for schools, thematic conferences, and more. The Open for Works program has inspired similar initiatives in other historical sites, further cementing the cathedral's influence in heritage conservation.
In conclusion, the Cathedral of Santa María de Vitoria is more than just a religious monument; it is a living museum of history, art, and culture. Its walls tell stories of the city's past, its architectural brilliance draws admiration, and its ongoing restoration ensures that future generations can continue to marvel at its splendor. A visit to this cathedral is a journey through time, offering a deep connection to the heritage of Vitoria-Gasteiz and the broader Basque Country.
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