In the heart of Aix-en-Provence, the Pavillon Vendôme stands as a testament to the grandeur and elegance of 17th-century architecture. This former private mansion, now a museum, invites visitors to step back in time and immerse themselves in a world of aristocratic splendor, artistic heritage, and historical intrigue.
The story of Pavillon Vendôme begins in 1664 when Louis de Mercœur, the Duke of Vendôme, acquired a parcel of land outside the city walls of Aix-en-Provence. A grandson of King Henry IV and Gabrielle d'Estrées, the Duke was a prominent figure in French nobility. He was appointed by his cousin, King Louis XIV, to command the armies of Provence, a role that brought him to Aix-en-Provence in 1652.
In recognition of his efforts to restore peace and royal authority in Provence, the local assembly awarded the Duke 20,000 livres. With this sum, he purchased a vineyard and garden in the Cordeliers suburb, where he commissioned the construction of a country house. The building project began in the spring of 1665 under the direction of Antoine Matisse, a master mason and architect from Paris. Although the name of Pierre Pavillon also appears in connection with the design, the official contracts were signed by Matisse.
The original structure featured a single story with a Mansard roof, allowing carriages to pass through the open ground floor. The Duke's romantic escapades with Lucrèce de Forbin-Solliès, known as la Belle du Canet, added a layer of intrigue to the mansion's history. According to legend, she would visit him in secret, accompanied by masked attendants, leading to local rumors that their passionate encounters contributed to the Duke's demise in 1669.
After the Duke's death, his son sold the pavilion to Gautier de la Molle, the Attorney General, who made significant modifications. He enclosed the ground floor, added an additional story, and replaced the roof with traditional Roman tiles. The mansion was subsequently named Pavillon de La Molle.
In the mid-18th century, the renowned painter Jean-Baptiste van Loo acquired the pavilion and set up his studio on the second floor. Later, Barthélemy-Louis Reboul, the secretary of the Aix Academy, became its owner. During the French Revolution, the pavilion was sold as émigré property and changed hands several times before being purchased in 1824 by Jean-Joseph-Pierre Guigou, the Bishop of Angoulême. He donated it to the Sisters of the Sacred Heart, who established a girls' school and boarding house that operated throughout the 19th century.
In 1906, Swiss art enthusiast Henri Dobler acquired the pavilion and undertook extensive restorations, aiming to recreate its original furnishings. He succeeded in having the garden and façade listed as historical monuments in 1914. Upon Dobler's death in 1941, the pavilion and his art collection were bequeathed to the city of Aix-en-Provence, and it was transformed into a museum in the 1990s.
The Pavillon Vendôme is a stunning example of classical architecture in Provence. Constructed from the yellowish stone of the Bibémus quarries, the building's façade features a harmonious blend of Doric, Ionic, and Composite pilasters. The entrance is flanked by two baroque atlantes, allegories of Dawn and Dusk, sculpted from Calissanne stone by Jean-Claude Rambot and Pierre Pavillon. These figures support an original wrought-iron balcony, adding to the mansion's grandeur.
Inside, the grand staircase is a highlight, with its intricate wrought-iron railing and decorative sculptures of sphinxes, garlands, putti, and eagles. Several rooms boast painted ceilings from the 18th century and are adorned with Cordovan leather wall coverings. The museum's collection includes portraits and drawings from the 17th and 18th centuries, Provençal furniture, and Moustiers faience pottery.
The pavilion's French garden, now a public park, has been meticulously reconstructed based on 17th-century engravings. At its center stands a circular fountain adorned with a putto, surrounded by meticulously manicured flowerbeds and topiaries. Of the original four corner pavilions, two remain, one of which was converted into a chapel in the 19th century. The garden's crenellated walls, built to deter marauders, add a touch of medieval charm to the serene landscape.
Archaeological excavations at the site have uncovered a 10-meter-long mosaic of black and white squares, as well as a Corinthian marble capital and column fragments. These findings suggest that the area has been of significance since ancient times, adding another layer of historical depth to the Pavillon Vendôme.
In conclusion, the Pavillon Vendôme is not just a historical monument; it is a living museum that encapsulates centuries of architectural evolution, artistic heritage, and romantic legends. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply seeking a tranquil retreat, a visit to this exquisite mansion in Aix-en-Provence promises to be a memorable experience.
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