San Francesco alle Scale, known locally as Chiesa di San Francesco alle Scale, is a remarkable architectural gem nestled in the historic city of Ancona, Italy. This enchanting church, with its rich history and exquisite design, offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the past, blending Gothic and Renaissance elements in a harmonious display of artistic prowess.
The story of San Francesco alle Scale begins on August 14, 1323, when it was founded by the Franciscans and Bishop Nicolò degli Ungari. Initially dedicated to Santa Maria Maggiore, the church underwent significant transformations over the centuries, reflecting the evolving architectural styles and cultural influences of the region.
In 1447, a grand staircase was constructed, lending the church its current name. Designed by Giorgio Orsini da Sebenico, this monumental staircase consisted of two sweeping ramps, each with 30 steps, covering the area of what is now Piazza San Francesco. This architectural marvel not only enhanced the church’s accessibility but also its grandeur, making it a focal point of Ancona’s urban landscape.
Giorgio Orsini da Sebenico, a master sculptor and architect, left an indelible mark on the church's facade in 1454. His design echoes the florid Gothic style of the Porta della Carta at the Doge's Palace in Venice, where he had previously worked. However, Orsini’s work at San Francesco alle Scale transcends mere imitation, incorporating Renaissance elements that emphasize decoration over structure.
The portal is adorned with intricate sculptures, including a frieze of twenty sculpted portraits and niches housing statues of Franciscan saints such as Saint Clare and Saint Anthony of Padua. Above the portal, a bas-relief depicts Saint Francis receiving the stigmata, topped by a semi-hexagonal canopy that adds to the facade's majestic appeal.
Between 1777 and 1790, the church was elevated and expanded, altering its original proportions and eliminating some of its 14th-century chapels. This renovation is still visible today, with a clear distinction between the original and later additions on the facade. Despite these changes, the church retained its historical essence, continuing to serve as a spiritual and cultural landmark.
In the late 18th century, the church faced closure and repurposing as a civic hospital during the Napoleonic era. A significant portion of the original staircase was removed in 1802, altering the church's approach and giving rise to the current Piazza San Francesco. The church complex underwent further secularization after 1860, transforming into a hospital until the opening of a new facility outside Porta Cavour.
After the devastation of World War II, which saw the collapse of the 18th-century bell tower, efforts were made to restore San Francesco alle Scale to its former glory. The church was reopened for worship in 1953 and became the parish seat for the Rione di San Pietro, replacing the nearby church destroyed during the war. A meticulous restoration of the portal from 1994 to 1997 revealed the warm white hues of the Istrian stone used by Orsini, breathing new life into the historic facade.
The interior of San Francesco alle Scale, with its single nave and 18th-century appearance, houses a collection of remarkable artworks. Among them is the Baptism of Christ by Pellegrino Tibaldi, created between 1554 and 1556, originally for the now-destroyed Church of Sant'Agostino. The church also features a wooden gilt altar from the suppressed church of San Francesco ad Alto, accompanied by Lorenzo Lotto's masterpiece, the Assumption, painted in 1550.
Visitors can also admire a votive altar dedicated to the patron saints of Fiume, a testament to the enduring cultural connections and historical narratives encapsulated within the church's walls.
San Francesco alle Scale stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability of Ancona's architectural heritage. Its storied past, marked by artistic triumphs and historical upheavals, offers a fascinating journey through the annals of time. As you explore this magnificent church, you are not merely witnessing a piece of history; you are stepping into a living narrative that continues to inspire and captivate all who pass through its doors.
Whether you are an art enthusiast, a history buff, or a curious traveler, San Francesco alle Scale promises an unforgettable experience, inviting you to explore the rich tapestry of Ancona's cultural and spiritual legacy.
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