Nestled in the heart of Ancona, Santa Maria della Piazza, known locally as Chiesa di Santa Maria della Piazza, stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of history and architecture that defines this Italian city. This Romanesque gem, dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries, is not just a place of worship but a fascinating journey through time, offering visitors a glimpse into the layers of history that have shaped its existence.
The story of Santa Maria della Piazza begins long before its current Romanesque form took shape. Originally, this sacred site was home to a Paleochristian church established in the 4th century, later restored in the 6th century. The church we see today was constructed atop these ancient foundations, with parts of its floor made of glass to reveal the intricate mosaics of its predecessor. These mosaics, rich in symbolic imagery of acanthus leaves and birds, echo the artistry found in the Basilica of Aquileia.
Initially known as Santa Maria del Canneto due to its proximity to the marshy port area, the church later adopted the name Santa Maria del Mercato, reflecting the bustling market activities in the adjacent square. For centuries, its forecourt served as the ceremonial stage for the investiture of the podestà, a significant civic event in the life of Ancona’s free commune.
As you approach Santa Maria della Piazza, the façade immediately captures your attention with its striking Romanesque design. The lower section is adorned with blind arches and features a Byzantine bas-relief depicting the Virgin Orans, a relic from Constantinople. Flanking her are additional reliefs of the Archangel Gabriel and a peacock, each imbued with symbolic meaning.
The façade, completed by Master Filippo in 1210, bears an inscription in medieval Latin, adding a layer of historical intrigue. Although the upper part of the façade was reconstructed in brick following an earthquake in 1690, its original design can be inferred from the façade of the Cathedral of Zadar, which was modeled after this Ancona church.
Step inside, and you are greeted by a basilica layout with three naves and a wooden truss ceiling. The elevated transept, covered with a cross vault, adds a unique architectural dimension, while the central nave leads to the apse, offering a serene space for reflection.
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The main portal, with its intricately carved bas-reliefs by Master Leonardo, is a masterpiece of symbolism, weaving stories around the vine motif that encircles the entrance. On the right side, a secondary portal showcases a Gothic sculpture of the Visitation, hinting at the evolving artistic styles that have touched this sacred place over the centuries.
Inside, the 1928 restoration by Luigi Serra brought back the church’s Romanesque interior, peeling away later additions to reveal the original single-light windows and the elevated floor of the transept. A subsequent restoration in 1980 further refined these efforts, enhancing accessibility to the underlying Paleochristian basilica.
The church's basement is an archaeological treasure trove, partially visible through glass panels in the floor. Here, guided tours occasionally offer a closer look at the layered mosaics, a well possibly used for baptismal purposes, and remnants of columns that once divided the ancient basilica into three naves.
Intriguingly, beneath the altar lies a niche that may have once housed relics, possibly even the stone used in the martyrdom of Saint Stephen, suggesting that this site could have been the original sanctuary dedicated to him. This hypothesis is supported by the presence of an episcopal chair and a burial site of a man named Stephen, hinting at the church’s early significance as a cathedral.
Santa Maria della Piazza is more than a historical monument; it is a living legacy of Ancona’s spiritual and civic life. Its walls echo the stories of a community shaped by faith, commerce, and resilience. As you explore this architectural jewel, you are not just witnessing the beauty of its design but also stepping into a narrative that has unfolded over centuries.
Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to Santa Maria della Piazza offers a profound connection to the past and a deeper appreciation for the artistry and devotion that have preserved this sacred space for future generations.
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