Santa Maria della Pieve

In the heart of Arezzo, Italy, stands the magnificent Santa Maria della Pieve, also known locally as Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pieve. This remarkable church, with its unique blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles, offers an enchanting journey through centuries of history, art, and culture.

The History of Santa Maria della Pieve

Santa Maria della Pieve's origins date back to the early Christian era, around the 5th or 6th century AD. Built on the site of a Roman temple dedicated to Mercury, the church has undergone numerous transformations over the centuries. Its name, Plebs Sancte Marie in Gradibus, reflects its ancient roots and has often been confused with a similarly named church, Santa Maria in Gradi.

The church's location was once extra-urban in the 3rd century AD, but it became part of the expanding city during the Roman Empire. By the 11th century, the church had taken on its current form, though the irregularities in its layout suggest a complex construction history influenced by the sloping terrain on which it stands.

The first documented mention of the church dates to 1009, when Bishop Elemperto of Arezzo is said to have commissioned its construction. The structure we see today began to take shape in the 12th century, funded and supported by the local community and the bishops who had made their residence nearby. The Romanesque elements of the church, particularly its imposing facade and elevated presbytery, are a testament to this period.

In the 13th century, a new facade was added to enhance the church's grandeur, featuring a series of arcades and columns. The bell tower, known as the Torre Campanaria, was started at the end of the 13th century and completed in 1330. Over the following centuries, the church saw the addition of numerous chapels, frescoes, and other decorative elements, many of which have been lost to time.

Significant transformations were undertaken by Giorgio Vasari between 1560 and 1563. Vasari, a native of Arezzo, created a grand wooden altar for the church, which was later moved to the Abbey of Saints Flora and Lucilla. The church also housed Federico Barocci's Madonna del Popolo, a masterpiece that marked a turning point in artistic style, now displayed in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

During the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, the church's interior was modified with Baroque stuccoes and decorations. However, restoration efforts between 1862 and 1875 aimed to return the church to its original Romanesque appearance, stripping away many of the later additions.

Exploring Santa Maria della Pieve

As you approach Santa Maria della Pieve, the first thing that captures your attention is its striking facade. Divided into four tiers, the facade features a series of arcades and columns that become progressively more intricate as they ascend. The topmost tier is crowned with an architrave, giving the facade a unique and harmonious appearance.

The church boasts four portals: three on the facade and one on the southern side along Via di Seteria. Each portal is richly decorated with intricate carvings and sculptures. The central portal, adorned with a depiction of the Virgin Mary flanked by angels and saints, invites visitors into the sacred space within. The side portals feature scenes from the life of Samson and the Baptism of Christ, each framed by lush foliage and symbolic motifs.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the facade is the series of sculpted months on the archivolt of the central portal. These reliefs, attributed to a master sculptor from northern Europe, date back to the early 13th century and are characterized by their vibrant polychromy, which was restored in recent years. The cycle begins with January, represented by the two-faced Janus, and continues through the year in a boustrophedon pattern, inviting viewers to follow the narrative in a specific order.

The Interior and Art of Santa Maria della Pieve

Stepping inside Santa Maria della Pieve, visitors are greeted by a serene and contemplative atmosphere. The elevated presbytery, a feature common in churches of northern Italy, Tuscany, and Emilia, adds to the sense of grandeur. The interior, stripped of its Baroque additions during the 19th-century restorations, now reflects its Romanesque origins.

The church's nave is lined with columns and arches, creating a rhythmical progression towards the altar. The simplicity of the design is complemented by the occasional remnants of medieval frescoes, offering glimpses into the church's rich artistic heritage. The crypt, located beneath the presbytery, is another highlight, providing a sense of the church's ancient foundations.

The Bell Tower and Surroundings

The Torre Campanaria, or bell tower, is one of Santa Maria della Pieve's most distinctive features. Rising majestically above the church, the tower is a symbol of the city's medieval past. Its construction began in the late 13th century and was completed in 1330. The tower's design, with its series of biforate windows, adds to the overall harmony of the church's architecture.

Santa Maria della Pieve is situated between Corso Italia and Piazza Grande, two of Arezzo's most vibrant and historic areas. Piazza Grande, in particular, is a hub of activity, hosting the famous Giostra del Saracino, a medieval jousting tournament that attracts visitors from all over the world. The square's sloping terrain and surrounding historic buildings create a picturesque setting, with the church's apse providing a stunning backdrop.

Conclusion

Santa Maria della Pieve is more than just a church; it is a testament to the enduring spirit of Arezzo and its people. From its early Christian origins to its Romanesque and Gothic transformations, the church has witnessed centuries of history and continues to inspire awe and reverence. Whether you are an art lover, history enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to Santa Maria della Pieve offers a captivating journey through time and a deeper appreciation of Arezzo's rich cultural heritage.