Located in the heart of Asti, Italy, the Synagogue, known locally as Sinagoga e museo ebraico di Asti, is a remarkable testament to the rich Jewish heritage of this historic city. Nestled within the former Jewish ghetto on Via Ottolenghi, this 18th-century synagogue is an architectural gem and a profound symbol of resilience and cultural identity. Although it is no longer used for regular worship and only opens for major holidays and family ceremonies, the synagogue remains a poignant reminder of the once-thriving Jewish community of Asti.
The Jewish presence in Asti dates back to 812, but it was during the 14th century, following the expulsions from Spain, Provence, and the Rhineland, that the community began to flourish. These Jewish settlers brought with them a unique liturgical tradition, blending Ashkenazi and ancient French rites, and spoke a dialect of Hebrew-Piedmontese. Initially relegated to hazardous occupations like tanning and dyeing, the Jewish community eventually found their niche in crafts and money lending, as they were prohibited from owning land or property.
In 1553, the Jews of Asti faced accusations of ritual murder, a dark chapter in their history. By the early 18th century, under the decree of Victor Amadeus II, ghettos were established, and Jews were confined to specific areas. The ghetto in Asti was located between Via Cappellai (now Via Aliberti) and Via San Bernardino (now Via Ottolenghi), where the synagogue stands today. Despite these restrictions, the Jewish community continued to thrive, and by 1761, 38 Jewish families were recorded in Asti, growing to 400 individuals by 1774.
The arrival of the French in 1791 marked a significant turning point, granting Jews equal citizenship and abolishing the ghetto. However, the restoration of 1815 saw the re-imposition of old restrictions. It wasn't until the Statuto Albertino in 1848 that Jews gained full emancipation, allowing them to integrate into the broader society. Prominent Jewish figures from Asti, such as Senator Isacco Artom and financier Zaccaria Ottolenghi, played vital roles in the city's development.
Tragically, the Jewish population dwindled in the 19th and 20th centuries due to emigration to larger cities and the horrors of the Holocaust. The fascist racial laws of 1938 and the Nazi occupation in 1943 led to the deportation and murder of many Jews from Asti. Today, the Jewish community in Asti is a small section of the larger Turin community, with a commemorative plaque in the synagogue courtyard honoring those who perished.
The current synagogue is built on the site of an earlier 17th or 18th-century structure, which itself underwent significant remodeling in 1838. Major renovations in 1889, funded by the Artom and Ottolenghi families, expanded the building, creating a neoclassical façade and adding a new wing. This renovation included the creation of a forecourt surrounded by an iron fence, enhancing the synagogue's grandeur.
The synagogue's façade on Via Ottolenghi features a neoclassical design with a central entrance flanked by two windows on either side. The wooden entrance door, reached by a short flight of steps, is framed by Ionic columns supporting an entablature inscribed with the Hebrew phrase, The Lord is near to all who call on Him (Psalm 145:18).
Upon entering, visitors are greeted by a vestibule. To the left is the entrance to the choir and a room that once served as the winter temple, now transformed into a museum adorned with commemorative plaques. To the right, a staircase leads to the women's gallery. The main prayer hall, reserved for men, is a square space divided by four marbleized columns supporting a vaulted ceiling. At the center, these columns uphold a hemispherical dome topped with an octagonal lantern, a distinctive architectural feature.
The Holy Ark, located at the far end of the prayer hall, is an ornate masterpiece, while the left side of the room is illuminated by three large arched windows with floral-patterned stained glass. The right side houses the expanded women's gallery, added during the 1889 renovations.
Part of the synagogue complex has been converted into a museum, showcasing the rich history and cultural heritage of the Jewish community in Asti. The museum displays artifacts, textiles, and wooden furniture from the 16th and 17th centuries, providing a glimpse into the community's past. Visitors can also see the commemorative plaques honoring those who contributed to the synagogue's legacy and those who perished during the Holocaust.
In conclusion, the Synagogue in Asti is not just a place of worship but a beacon of history, culture, and resilience. Its walls echo the stories of a community that has faced adversity with unwavering faith and determination. For visitors to Asti, a visit to this historic synagogue offers a profound connection to the past and a deeper understanding of the Jewish heritage that has shaped this charming Italian city.
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